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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Confession T A1+
Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Mark Ward & JimKnight 1976. FFA: Bobby Rotert 1983
Page Views: 3,710 total, 30/month
Shared By: Dave Budge on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

One of LCC's best. Killer thin crack liebacking. The crux is placing gear. The second pitch rounds the ear and goes up and past the horn with the slings. Climbing through to the horn in one pitch gives the most continuous climbing and goes to an obvious stance, but requires a 70m rope and the rock just past the original anchor spot is a bit grotty. I've never climbed past the horn, reportedly the rock of the second pitch is of less quality than the first pitch.

Location

Obvious perfect shallow dihedral on east-facing wall across from the base of Intensive Care. One can rap the first pitch with a 60m rope, be careful with anything shorter. Continuing on would require two ropes for the rappel.

Protection

One piton, which still looks fairly solid. The second piton was removed 10/11/07 because it was cracked and redundant, clean pro is found above and below. There are several good nut placements, bring multiples of small TCUs, and hand sizes for the handcrack. Placing gear is the crux for most. The two-bolt anchor with tattered nylon was revised 10/11/07. The 1/4" X 1" bolt was rusted and removed with almost no effort. It was replaced with a 3/8" X 3.5" bolt with a stainless ring anchor. The other bolt looks OK and should be safe, it has a biner with rap ring on it. Thirty feet of unsightly tattered nylon was removed.

For a more continuous pitch, climb past the anchors, around the ear, to the obvious stance under the horn with the slings and biners. Lowering from here requires a 70m.

Photos

madskates
slc
 
madskates   slc
 
Easily one of the top 3 5.11 pitches in the canyon. Its long, clean, and the stemming is amazing. If this had a shorter approach it would undoubtedly be on the canyon classic list. Nov 18, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
I usually fall more on the approaches than the rock. Whether itÂ’s some loose talus or greasing out of my flip flops on some slabby 4th class, usually resulting in spilling my approach beer. Man, climbing outside is tough. Better just stick to Momentum from now on. Jul 13, 2014
for me the best parts of most of the climbs are the walks to get to them... at least I don't have to be scared on the walks. Aug 1, 2012
No doubt! I love that hike and sometimes do laps on it to get in shape. At least it isn't straight up the entire way. Aug 1, 2012
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I doubt it would take an hour to crawl to this route. Jul 31, 2012
I did this pitch yesterday, and despite the sucky hike (even by LCC standards) which took an hour, it was worth it. Great, technical lay backing capped by steep jamming up top. The gear was surprisingly good and not that hard to place. I used doubles of Black Diamond 00-2 C3s, one each .5-2 Camalot. Jul 19, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
jimmeny cricket this one is tough! toproping this baby is one thing, placing gear is another. i found the gear to be quite strenuous to get in, and the most obvious places are the best fingerholds. bummer. the hike up there is pretty crappy, but this one is a gooder, so do it at least once. The crux is the top 15 feet of thin fingers(red c3) up to the hand section where feet are scarce and the pods aren't awesome. Jul 12, 2012
apross  
hmmm Brad, should you not be elsewhere instead of wasting time posting?, must be lunch break. Jun 17, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
A good friend of mine recently pointed out that in LCC, you can count the pure crack climbs of this calibre on one finger. Oh the wit. Jun 17, 2010
Dave, we should go up there and extend the first pitch and do the second. It would clean up, I think. Oct 2, 2007