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Routes in Gargoyle Wall

Big Neon Glitter T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloister T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Confession T A1+
Gargoyle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: FA: John Storm, Douglas Heinrich, Conrad Anker 1988
Page Views: 180 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dave Budge on Oct 2, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

An LCC classic that graced the cover of the first Ruckman guide. Its hard to overstate how cutting edge this was in 1988. Pretty damn hard pulling the crux, but its not over until you climb the prow above. You get extra points on your 8a.nu scorecard if you send it in a pink tank top.

Location

Located on the obvious steep prow left of Gargoyle.

Protection

After clipping the lowest bolt, throw in some TCUs in the flake to protect the hand traverse. Bolts protect the remainder of the climbing.

Photos

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
uggh. got worked solidly on this one. reachy move leaving the ground(well protected by bolt) leads to fun crack traverse. then the shutdown ensued. Clip 2 pretty closely spaced bolts to get over the roof. Some kind of sidepull slopey palmy action sans feet will get you over but i failed to do so. The prow above didn't look horrible as it is lower angle, but I didn't get that far. Jul 12, 2012