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Routes in Stone Wall

April Fools S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birthstone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Haunted Hooks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nirvana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze I S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roto Hammer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Hammer II T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stonehenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Don Burroughs, Mike Ward & Alan Busby - '93
Page Views: 1,195 total, 9/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Take the lower deck and wander behind a scrub oak bush. The start is at a deep hueco. The route climbs steep varnished rock using scoops & thin edges.

Location

4th route from the right side of the wall. Behind a scrub oak

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchors

Photos

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Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
Whoever bolted this route should have their drill taken from them. Several of the bolt placements defy common sense. In particular the second bolt, the one above the small ledge above, and the one after that. This route felt hard and sustained for the grade. I wouldn't argue if someone called it 11d. Jan 30, 2016
gregthedude
cvo
 
gregthedude   cvo
 
Gotta recommend a stick clip.....my partner started this route and fell before getting the second bolt. Slammed square into me and knocked me damn near out...... Apr 1, 2012
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
The hardest moves are just above the first clip. By the time you are making the second clip a fall could put you close to the ground but you are less likely to fall at that point.

Overall a pretty cool route. Powerfull moves down low lead to technical balance intensive stuff up higher. When I did it the lack of chalk up higher made for interesting route finding. Oct 30, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Agreed, watch moving to the second clip, hard dangerous move with groundfall. Mar 30, 2011
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
Getting the second bolt requires either a difficult awkward clip from below or you can do a few more moves, into ground fall range, to a better stance. Up higher there is a bolt right over a decent sized edge that juts out. The fall above there wouldn't be far but your ankle might not appreciate meeting that ledge.

This is my least favorite route at Stone Wall. Apr 29, 2008