Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Don Burroughs, Alan Busby 1993
Page Views: 1,812 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ian Wolfe on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The furthest right climb on the wall. The start involves a little weirdness, and it just continues, all the way up. Climb up lower angle rock to a large dish. Pull the dish on the left (awkward!) and continue up to anchors.

Location

last route on the Stone Wall.

Protection

6 bolts plus whatever you like to put on bolted anchors

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
After doing this route a few times now, I've decided that it really is only OK. Don't get sucked into doing it first because it's the easiest graded route on the wall. The awkwardness and weirdness might leave you wondering if all the routes there will be the same (which they are not).

I'll still get on it while in the area, but I'm no longer starting on it.

YMMV,

Susan Nov 1, 2008
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.10b
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.10b
Not as straightforward as the other routes on the wall. That said I found it to be varied (slab start then steep up higher), thought provoking, and fun. Jan 10, 2010
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
 
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
 
Definitely an awkward climb. It felt like every single move I made was wrong and I constantly had to re-adjust my feet and hands. Usually, I can onsight 10c/d's, but I just totally burned myself out on this one. And by the time I got to the last bolt, I got into a dilemma where I climbed too far past the bolt to clip and was too tired to downclimb and ended up taking a nice whipper. We did Rotohammer and Haunted Hooks afterwards, which were a LOT more fun. Maybe just avoid this climb Apr 17, 2013
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
I liked the movement on this climb, and found it interesting and pretty varied after some of the climbing with more linear thinking on this crag. Figuring out how to make a sideways long reach right near the top to a large hold added some extra zing. Interesting that "awkwardness" brings this route down in quality for people. Is the route actually awkward, or does it just come down to routefinding or having to figure out some different movement?

That said, I thought nirvana was the best line on the wall of what we climbed. Dec 16, 2013
Rosscarl
Las Vegas, NV
Rosscarl   Las Vegas, NV
Any one have any information on the second pitch of this route? Looks like it goes a bit easier than the first pitch. Apr 30, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10b/c
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10b/c
I found this route kinda sandbagged at 10b. It was not intuitive and nowhere near as fun as the 10s to the left. Apr 3, 2019