Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Zich, 1991
Page Views: 8,118 total · 54/month
Shared By: Michael Martin on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


308 Opinions

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Description

Start at a shallow, left-facing feature and follow a bolt line up until you reach a traverse on heavily chalked holds. This is the crux. There is a bit of a runout to the anchors, but it's on much easier climbing.

Location

This is the namesake route of the wall. Downhill climber's right from the classic cruiser Hippie Dreams. When facing the route, look for a shallow left-facing feature at ground level. For reference, up and to the left, you should see a clean orange dihedral a couple routes over.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Greg Flury
  5.10c/d
Greg Flury  
  5.10c/d
Of several 5.10s and 11s we did at the Orange Oswald Wall and on the Satisfaction Wall in June of 2018, the Orange Oswald route was the only route we DISLIKED, and would not recommend until after you’ve climbed every other route firs— nah, not even then. In spite of all the raving the guide books spout about Orange Oswald being a “must-do”, it was a big dissapointment; many holds are polished slippery-smooth, positive edges have been rounded or ground off, other holds are caked thick with chalk and skin, and at least a few holds have been broken off. Maybe 25-30 years ago it was a 4-star 10a like it says in the guides, but now, I would only give it 1 star, and would rate it 10c-d. It felt like an indoor gym route that was set 5 years ago and never cleaned or reset since.

The route immediately to the right, “Orange Express”, is everything Orange Oswald claims to be, and more. The guide book rated Orange Express as a 5.10c, which felt dead-on to my two friends and myself. Not withstanding the listed ratings of the two climbs, Orange Express was most definitely EASIER than Orange Oswald, had much better “flow”, better moves, and was more interesting. Aug 25, 2018
Wesley Neill
Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.10d
Wesley Neill   Sequoia National Park, CA
  5.10d
I agree with Greg.

It's not that this climb completely sucks, but it certainly doesn't live up to the hype. I'd avoid it unless it is the only climb open or you have climbed every other climb already.

The only fun part is the cruxy traverse, which will be somewhat soul crushing if you expect it to feel 10a. Oct 22, 2018