Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Orange Oswald Wall

Baby With A Nail Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Barfing Butterflies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chunko Goes Bowling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fabulous Groupies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hell With That, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Dreams S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hunger Artist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say No T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moon Pie Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Express S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Orange Oswald S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scoot Your Muffin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snub Nose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Souled Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voodoo Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Zich, 1991
Page Views: 7,476 total · 53/month
Shared By: Michael Martin on Feb 11, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


283 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start at a shallow, left-facing feature and follow a bolt line up until you reach a traverse on heavily chalked holds. This is the crux. There is a bit of a runout to the anchors, but it's on much easier climbing.

Location

This is the namesake route of the wall. Downhill climber's right from the classic cruiser Hippie Dreams. When facing the route, look for a shallow left-facing feature at ground level. For reference, up and to the left, you should see a clean orange dihedral a couple routes over.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Of several 5.10s and 11s we did at the Orange Oswald Wall and on the Satisfaction Wall in June of 2018, the Orange Oswald route was the only route we DISLIKED, and would not recommend until after you’ve climbed every other route firs— nah, not even then. In spite of all the raving the guide books spout about Orange Oswald being a “must-do”, it was a big dissapointment; many holds are polished slippery-smooth, positive edges have been rounded or ground off, other holds are caked thick with chalk and skin, and at least a few holds have been broken off. Maybe 25-30 years ago it was a 4-star 10a like it says in the guides, but now, I would only give it 1 star, and would rate it 10c-d. It felt like an indoor gym route that was set 5 years ago and never cleaned or reset since.

The route immediately to the right, “Orange Express”, is everything Orange Oswald claims to be, and more. The guide book rated Orange Express as a 5.10c, which felt dead-on to my two friends and myself. Not withstanding the listed ratings of the two climbs, Orange Express was most definitely EASIER than Orange Oswald, had much better “flow”, better moves, and was more interesting. Aug 25, 2018

More About Orange Oswald

Printer-Friendly