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Routes in Orange Oswald Wall

Baby With A Nail Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Barfing Butterflies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chunko Goes Bowling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fabulous Groupies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hell With That, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Dreams S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hunger Artist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say No T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moon Pie Deluxe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Express S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Orange Oswald S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scoot Your Muffin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snub Nose S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Souled Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voodoo Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Chris Petty
Page Views: 17,791 total, 140/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 11, 2007 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start on an easy corner and continue up the rounded arete to a ledge then move right and continue up the sloping holds to the anchor.

This climb is a must do for the warming up 5.10 climber.

Location

Left facing corner on left elevated portion of Orange Oswald Wall.

Protection

Many bolts(10ish) to Anchor
"1.8 miles from the lot off 19 to Hippie Dreams"

FWIW, I tracked it a few years ago and had 1.3 miles at about 33 minutes walking with a group that wasn't in a huge hurry. Sep 12, 2016
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
1.8 miles from the lot off 19 to Hippie Dreams. Did it in 30 flat. Don't ask me why. It was hot out and everyone I was with wanted to go swimming. I almost slept in and went hiking instead. That's how much I can't stand it. Sadly, things are not going to change. They're just going to get worse. I know your point wasn't just to gripe, but the things that you'd like to happen have very little chance of actually happening. These people don't accept an outdoor mindset. Most of them have never even been taught. They take it upon themselves to just show up and their behavior is reflective of what they know, which is unfortunately not very much. They're brought up in gyms and that's all they know; add to that- people are generally selfish dicks to begin with particularly if they haven't grown up in the outdoors.

As a matter of fact what should be the norm has become the exception. Incidentally, I was at Long Wall last weekend, with a small army of gumbies, and when I let a guy and his partner (offered in fact, after they had been standing there for ten minutes looking on and not saying anything) jump in and quickly lead and clean the route, all the "people" I was with looked at me as if I'd broken some sacred commandment. They simply didn't get that what I had done IS the ethic if you're gang top-roping a moderate (or anything else for that matter).

If you're looking for things to change, you're probably going to be disappointed. Get out super early, or write the place off. There are other places that are more obscure or have longer approaches that have routes in your range. The Other Place, Zero Buttress, etc. Does it suck? Sure, but instead of continuously frustrating yourself, why not focus your efforts elsewhere? Just my $.02 Sep 12, 2016
Thee Baum  
 
Hey man. Just noticed your comments planning my next weekend at the lake.

"It's maybe 2 miles, not 4. I've made the hike in well under an hour before."
- I have the gps track somewhere, and I think it was closer to 4, been out there a ton of times. Irregardless if you can't hike 3-4mph I doubt you're much of a cllimber, lol.


"Did you tactfully approach the group? What was their response?...t sucks that people have no outdoor etiquette and think that a rope hanging from anchors designates ownership of that route."


I have. I'm not just talking about one time. This is absolutely the norm on hippie dreams. I've asked to cut in before, sometimes it goes well, sometimes they act like you're committing a cardinal sin against all that is climbing.I'm also not talking small groups of 2-3 people, I've seen groups of 8+. Many of the times it's a lot of brand new climbers, which is great, but means you're talking 20+ min per climber to finish a route that should take just a few.

C: Do a different route. This is the norm at Tattoo Wall and Orange Oswald. You can expect this any weekend of the year when the weather is decent. Use it as motivation to get stronger and bolder and skip the lower graded warmups.

That's the goal. I'm a 5.10 climber on TR but still getting into leading (after a year off) so sometimes when you hike out to such a crag, being unable to get on a route of your skill for hours is just ridiculous.

My point was not just to gripe. Just to spread awareness. Some of my encounters out there, and around the area, have been met with frustration simply for asking to jump on a route after a group has been on it for a long time, and are treating it like their own private retreat. I don't get agro or anything, just get frustrated. I'd like people in big groups to be cognizant of their fellow climbers, rather than having to strategize how to get on a route without pissing them off. Sep 7, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Popular because it's easy, not necessarily because the climbing is great Jun 30, 2016
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
" if you're climbing this, get it done, enjoy it, and get out of the way. Some groups will setup hammocks and top rope on this route and tie it up for hours, which sucks when you have newish climbers who just hiked 4mi to climb. This crag is for everyone not just your youth group to use for 5 hours."

I agree except for one point: It's maybe 2 miles, not 4. I've made the hike in well under an hour before. Did you tactfully approach the group? What was their response? Did you ask if you could pull their rope for a quick lead and follow then hang it right back up? It sucks that people have no outdoor etiquette and think that a rope hanging from anchors designates ownership of that route. But this is the world we live in now. Your choices are as follows:
A: Get aggro, pull the rope, then hang it back up when you're done. Or not.
B: Ask if you can squeeze in really quickly, and hang their rope up when you're done.
C: Do a different route. This is the norm at Tattoo Wall and Orange Oswald. You can expect this any weekend of the year when the weather is decent. Use it as motivation to get stronger and bolder and skip the lower graded warmups.
D: Plug gear. There is a 5.6 corner right next to that route that no one ever climbs because it's a lone gear line in a sea of bolts. It's as good or better than Hippie Dreams and quite well protected. Same with the 5.9 dihedral down the hill- only it has a couple bolts down low.

As much as it sucks, if you come to expect this sort of behavior, you'll either get out earlier, or climb harder, or both. Apr 14, 2016
Thee Baum  
 
This route is certainly one of the most climbed routes at Summersville. It's a lot of fun, especially for new leaders like me (since this was my 2nd lead), and provides awesome views of the lake.

Due to it's popularity there are two considerations

1- Get here early, or you will most likely end up waiting 30min+ to climb it, this thing gets insanely busy

  • 1a- related: if you're climbing this, get it done, enjoy it, and get out of the way. Some groups will setup hammocks and top rope on this route and tie it up for hours, which sucks when you have newish climbers who just hiked 4mi to climb. This crag is for everyone not just your youth group to use for 5 hours.

2)The holds are polished, I think the grading is accurate, but don't rely on friction here too much.

All in all It's a good warmup for you guys moving on down to the 5.10s and a good confidence builder for the new climbers. Apr 14, 2016