Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,711 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Fun moves up loose flake to gain one roof, pull a weird move, gain a tight left kneebar and rest, then pull the last roof to the upper face, pull a couple of 5.10+ moves then up easier ground to the anchors.

Location

2nd route right on the white ramp on the left side of this cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Gilbert M
  5.11b/c
Gilbert M  
  5.11b/c
Excellent route, but stout for the grade. Took me a while to dial in the beta, and even then it felt more like 5.11b/c. Found this one more fun (and challenging) than Satisfaction. May 26, 2015
zachj F
 
zachj F  
 
Agreed that it is quite stout for the grade. Tough moves getting through the slick, slabby face and I couldn't get into position for the knee bar rest. Not using that knee bar rest makes that clip above the roof really tough.

I didn't find it to be nearly as fun as Satisfaction Guaranteed. Jun 20, 2016
Bennett Lafond
Montpelier, VT
Bennett Lafond   Montpelier, VT
Much harder than other 11a's in the NRG but loads of fun on beautiful rock. Maybe it wouldn't have felt so tough if I could have figured out the fabled kneebar... Oct 19, 2017
Wesley Neill
Sequoia National Park, CA
5.11c
Wesley Neill   Sequoia National Park, CA
5.11c
So. Fun. Wish I'd read about the knee bar before trying it. This one shut me down at the second roof. How about that fun move off the far right crimp to the sloper lower down!? Saweeeeeet move. Jan 22, 2018