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Routes in Orange Oswald Wall

Baby With A Nail Gun S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Barfing Butterflies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chunko Goes Bowling S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fabulous Groupies S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hell With That, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippie Dreams S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hunger Artist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say No T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moon Pie Deluxe S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Orange Express S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Orange Oswald S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scoot Your Muffin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snub Nose S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Souled Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voodoo Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,511 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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73 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Fun moves up loose flake to gain one roof, pull a weird move, gain a tight left kneebar and rest, then pull the last roof to the upper face, pull a couple of 5.10+ moves then up easier ground to the anchors.

Location

2nd route right on the white ramp on the left side of this cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Gilbert M
  5.11b/c
Gilbert M  
  5.11b/c
Excellent route, but stout for the grade. Took me a while to dial in the beta, and even then it felt more like 5.11b/c. Found this one more fun (and challenging) than Satisfaction. May 26, 2015
zachj F
 
zachj F  
 
Agreed that it is quite stout for the grade. Tough moves getting through the slick, slabby face and I couldn't get into position for the knee bar rest. Not using that knee bar rest makes that clip above the roof really tough.

I didn't find it to be nearly as fun as Satisfaction Guaranteed. Jun 20, 2016
Bennett Lafond
Montpelier, VT
Bennett Lafond   Montpelier, VT
Much harder than other 11a's in the NRG but loads of fun on beautiful rock. Maybe it wouldn't have felt so tough if I could have figured out the fabled kneebar... Oct 19, 2017
Wesley
Morgantown WV
 
Wesley   Morgantown WV
 
So. Fun. Wish I'd read about the knee bar before trying it. This one shut me down at the second roof. How about that fun move off the far right crimp to the sloper lower down!? Saweeeeeet move. Jan 22, 2018

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