Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,759 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

Unknown Reality starts out in a wide, flaring corner with rounded edges. A small roof complicates things at this cruxy start. You have several options, all of which are technical (or crazy), barn door to a lieback stance, chickenwing the offwidth to some big fist jams (my fists are too small) or pull over the small roof on bad crimps just to the right before swinging back into the crack. After the crux, there is significantly easier climbing in the crack with ample stemming opportunities. The top third is the easiest part of all, weighing in at a mere 5.7. The guidebook beta I had gave this a 5.9 rating (dr.topo), so it is possible that there is a trick to this route (see various rants on ratings in forum discussions). IMHO, there are far better routes to try at this area. On a more positve note, this would be a fun alternative start to Solar Eclipse.

Location Suggest change

Crack to the immediate right of Solar Eclipse.

Protection Suggest change

#3 and #4 camalot (or equivalent) required to protect initial crux moves. Standard rack with emhapsis on medium gears sews up what remains. Use two anchor bolts from Solar Eclipse for descent.