Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 914 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Unknown Reality starts out in a wide, flaring corner with rounded edges. A small roof complicates things at this cruxy start. You have several options, all of which are technical (or crazy), barn door to a lieback stance, chickenwing the offwidth to some big fist jams (my fists are too small) or pull over the small roof on bad crimps just to the right before swinging back into the crack. After the crux, there is significantly easier climbing in the crack with ample stemming opportunities. The top third is the easiest part of all, weighing in at a mere 5.7. The guidebook beta I had gave this a 5.9 rating (dr.topo), so it is possible that there is a trick to this route (see various rants on ratings in forum discussions). IMHO, there are far better routes to try at this area. On a more positve note, this would be a fun alternative start to Solar Eclipse.

Location

Crack to the immediate right of Solar Eclipse.

Protection

#3 and #4 camalot (or equivalent) required to protect initial crux moves. Standard rack with emhapsis on medium gears sews up what remains. Use two anchor bolts from Solar Eclipse for descent.

Photos

steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
did this climb on feb 12, i thought it was really good. Be sure to get those hands in deep though. i placed a #2, 3, and 4 camalot but a .75 or .5 would fit in the top but it's not really necessary. Feb 14, 2011
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
No need to lieback or pull on crimps. This baby is a (mildly) sandy fist crack with some great feet. Dec 19, 2014
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
  5.9
I only TR-ed this because of the 10c rating. But the holds and feet were really solid and I thought it went 5.9. Next time, I will have the do the lead. Very fun and worth doing! Dec 28, 2015