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Routes in Sunny Side

Black Dwarf S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Friday S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Black Hole Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Camlock TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual Slander S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cyclops S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Degenerate Matter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Tell Trevor T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Galactic Cannibalism S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gravitational Attraction S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hippy's at Bat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jerry's on Deck S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jesus Wore Tevas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keystone Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lefty's Paradise? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunar Orbit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mickey Mantle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Minnie's in the Hole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moses Had a Stick Clip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noahs Ark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuclear Decay T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Objective Reality T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oh My Heck S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oh My Hell S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Shit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Particulate Matter S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Aaaarm!!! T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Solar Eclipse S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Standing on Faith TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sungrazer S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Reality T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Volcanic Therapy TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: D. Biniaz, E. Jones
Page Views: 1,569 total, 11/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 19, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Finger- to hand-crack start, then edges and fun pockets. Route is about 30 feet right of where the trail meets the "sunny side" wall. The route forms a loose, 3-sided box with "Standing on Faith" and "Volcanic Therapy."

The anchor is easily accessible from the top; walk right along the cliff until an obvious route to the top is found.

Protection

Three bolts to two chain anchor.
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.9 PG13
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.9 PG13
If you fell while clipping the third bolt, I think you'd deck, or meet your belayer. This would not be a good first lead, unless you had TR'ed it first and were familiar with it. The pockets at the top are really cool though, and it is a very fun climb. The chain links are small. My BD hood wire quick draws would not fit in them. Jan 9, 2015
This was a really fun little route.
some of the pockets hold water for several days after it rains got my hands wet in a few of them.

Second the above comment blowing the third bolt would be bad but it is easy to set up a toprope. Nov 30, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Another acceptable Black Rocks climb. Short and fun. Feb 4, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9 PG13
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9 PG13
Don't blow the third clip, a fall here would be ugly. Jan 28, 2007