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Routes in (8) The Northern Group

A Taste of Honey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Dive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kachoong T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 175 ft
FA: Tempest & Lindorff - 1977
Page Views: 10,881 total, 82/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Kachoong is Arapiles' quintessential roof climb and perhaps the most photographed climb on the continent. Supposedly the name comes from the sound the rope makes if one falls from the crux...

Descend the gully and climb up the very steep, reachy orange wall to gain a decent stance under the roof. Take a breath and punch it out the flake to the lip, over, and up.

The best light is at sunrise, and, of course, there is a perfect photographer's ledge just across from the crux.

Protection

Light standard rack.
easily one of the best routes in the world. i blew off the gear in the traverse out to the lip. set two bomber pieces where the head wall met the roof and went for it. just after pulling over the lip i had one of those lightning strike falls. my hands were sweaty and i just greased off. biggest fall of my life. got it on the second try. i was told kachung is the sound your femur makes when it breaks hitting the arete on the way down. Nov 8, 2011
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
No Jon, it's not just 10c. IT'S 10c friggin awesomeness!!! One of the coolest climbs around. Take prussics for both leader and second if you're not both solid though cuz you won't get back on otherwise if you come off.

[deep erie voice] go to arapiles jon... climb kachoong... party in the pines...

CL Jul 26, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
holy crap! this thing is only 10c???111!!1!eleventy!!?? i want one. :( Mar 25, 2009
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Back in the 80s, I climbed extensively with An Aussie whose home base was Arapiles. He said the name was from the sound of a rock dropping into a deep pool of water (or, to stay in the vernacular, a billabong). Dec 17, 2008
Byron Murray  
 
A rap station is now set up for the photographer so bring an extra rope. The station has two bolts and you rap down ~15 meters to the perfect picture spot. Mar 20, 2008