PRINT: Rock Climb Kachoong, Mount Arapiles

Kachoong

5.10c, Trad, 175 ft (53 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 36 votes
FA: Tempest & Lindorff - 1977
International > Australia > Victoria > Mt Arapiles > (8) The Northern Group

Description

Kachoong is Arapiles' quintessential roof climb and perhaps the most photographed climb on the continent. Supposedly the name comes from the sound the rope makes if one falls from the crux...

Descend the gully and climb up the very steep, reachy orange wall to gain a decent stance under the roof. Take a breath and punch it out the flake to the lip, over, and up.

The best light is at sunrise, and, of course, there is a perfect photographer's ledge just across from the crux.

Protection

Light standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kachoong!

Byron Murray at good holds above the roof.

Making the kachoong noise!

Seconding the Mega-Classic Kachoong (21)

Yes I was being a total poser, that's half the fun of climbing this route.

I mighta posed a little bit. Does that make me a poser?

Obligatory shameless kanchoong photo. Sooo much fun.

Byron Murray pulling through...

Byron Murray clipping the pin.

Byron Murray at the start of Kachoong.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Byron Murray
Boulder, CO

A rap station is now set up for the photographer so bring an extra rope. The station has two bolts and you rap down ~15 meters to the perfect picture spot. Mar 20, 2008

Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA

Back in the 80s, I climbed extensively with An Aussie whose home base was Arapiles. He said the name was from the sound of a rock dropping into a deep pool of water (or, to stay in the vernacular, a billabong). Dec 17, 2008

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ

holy crap! this thing is only 10c???111!!1!eleventy!!?? i want one. :( Mar 25, 2009

claytown
Boulder, CO

No Jon, it's not just 10c. IT'S 10c friggin awesomeness!!! One of the coolest climbs around. Take prussics for both leader and second if you're not both solid though cuz you won't get back on otherwise if you come off.

[deep erie voice] go to arapiles jon... climb kachoong... party in the pines...

CL Jul 26, 2009

roundhead

easily one of the best routes in the world. i blew off the gear in the traverse out to the lip. set two bomber pieces where the head wall met the roof and went for it. just after pulling over the lip i had one of those lightning strike falls. my hands were sweaty and i just greased off. biggest fall of my life. got it on the second try. i was told kachung is the sound your femur makes when it breaks hitting the arete on the way down. Nov 8, 2011

Kevin DB

I got the most obnoxious unwanted beta spray ever one this route, but turned it around on the guy.

I'm climbing it, near the lip and there is this old timely dude who starts yelling beta at me "yeah man, now left hand up the jug, then match the right hand. Etc etc." (Not the real beta)

I realized I had tons of juice left so decided to be a little cheeky.

"Yeah, yeah man, later, I have to pose for my photo."

So slowly cut feet and posed for a while.

"Wait wait, I want another one."

Hung out some more at the lip being as big of a poser as possible before casually pulling the lip.

"Oh shit, I forgot to use your beta." Mar 18, 2020