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Routes in (8) The Northern Group

A Taste of Honey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Dive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kachoong T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Barber - 1975
Page Views: 2,312 total · 17/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 21, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

A Taste of Honey is yet another Henry Barber masterpiece. Expect just about all of his routes at Arapiles to be extremely difficult for the grade. Descend the High Dive Gully (same as for Kachoong) and scramble up to the photographer's ledge. Set up a belay here and climb up off the belay a short distance, traverse left around the arete, and then up a right-facing corner to the roof. Runner all gear well as this climb changes aspects about 5 times. Place gear under the roof and stretch out right to a horizontal and cut your feet loose. Monkey across the steep wall and pull up to another arete and stance and continue easily to the top.

Protection

Light standard rack. Save a runner for a thread under the roof.

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
There's a first pitch to this route that is also quite good. May 23, 2012
Seth Dyer  
 
I agree...definitely more difficult than Kachoong. A great route and less of a novelty climb than Kachoong. Feb 23, 2007
This must-do novelty route packs several cool moves in about 50' of climbing. The crux face overhangs in at least two dimensions and is the site of many unnecessary hosings of the second. Placing pro in the middle of this section would be very difficult but is a cinch once the campusing is over -- reach back from a casual stance and place something like a #6 Rock. There is an easily accessed stance directly across from the crux whence one may scope out the difficulties (or pysche him/her self out) or take photos of the festivities. As I recall, accessing the start is a production with rapping being the most straightforward approach.

Receives the same rating as Kachoong but is technically much harder. Jan 23, 2007