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Routes in Main Alcove Wall

Breakfast of Champions T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13
Crispy V1 5
Hammond Eggs V3 6A
High Traverse V5 6C
Kellogg's T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) V3-4 6A+
On the Box V6 7A
Over Easy V2 5+
Pop V2 5+
Scrambled V-easy 3
Slippery Crimps V1 5
Thank God Traverse V1 5
Warm Up Traverse V-easy 3
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder
FA: a lesser kudu
Page Views: 2,159 total, 16/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is the easier version of the overhang in the Alcove. It involves going up and trusting that ball-like hold. At least the landing isn't as bad as Breakfast of Champions. Fun!

Addendum: Some may prefer a V grade, but Sherman's V system didn't exist when I climbed it first. Also, I'm not sure I've ever climbed a V3, yet I climbed this one. I added a V1 grade.

Location

This goes up the right side of the overhang. It is left of the moon scoop. Aim for the ball hold.

Protection

A pad, a spotter, or decent technique.

Photos

S. Neoh  
I too agree V grade for this and Breakfast is more appropriate.
Sorry if I sounded harsh, I did not mean to. Nov 16, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
True... but seeing as MP is primarily a platform for the most up-to-date route beta and not necessarily as a repository for historical information on these climbs (though I love that element of climbing in New England), I think that as a boulder problem, giving this a V-grade would be warranted.

Caveat: I'm also an upstart young climber, don't know shit when it comes to the scene in New England, and am in no way trying to step on toes of any of the history here. I'm just trying to put in my two cents for what seems like a incongruity on this specific page. Nov 16, 2013
S. Neoh  
V3-/V3 I think. Easier than Breakfast. Old school grading of .10+ might not be all that unreasonable, when one is mindful of Cathedral and Gunks .10+ routes. Nov 15, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.11+
+1

I think that giving YDS grades in the style of Boston Rocks for routes at Hammond Pond that are (to my knowledge) exclusively bouldered on by a climbing community that expects Hueco grades for their problems is a bit... I dunno... archaic?

In any case, this feels solid V3, which is the grade it receives in the Kemple Guide. By modern comparisons that puts it in the 5.11+ range even if we are using YDS. That might be a better representation here. Nov 14, 2013
T Seas  
Haha, I think there might be a typo. Otherwise those are the shortest pitches I have ever seen! Do one move, build an anchor, bring up the second, repeat 12 times. Mar 9, 2010