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Routes in Main Alcove Wall

Breakfast of Champions T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13
Crispy V1 5
Hammond Eggs V3 6A
High Traverse V5 6C
Kellogg's T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) V3-4 6A+
On the Box V6 7A
Over Easy V2 5+
Pop V2 5+
Scrambled V-easy 3
Slippery Crimps V1 5
Thank God Traverse V1 5
Warm Up Traverse V-easy 3
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown gorilla
Page Views: 3,446 total, 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 with updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the fine, moderate, bouldering problems in the Alcove. Its overhanging nature and the potential nasty landing (pre-pad days) made it as much a mental challenge as a physical challenge. I understand one fine climber, Geoff, actually broke his back on this problem.

The start isn't too bad. It's the last part of this problem that involves a long reach on less-than-buckets that make it challenging. I've come to understand it's considered V2-3 now, depending on one's height. Pushed to add a bouldering grade by Dave Twardowski, I've added a range including a PG-13 safety rating due to the risk to one's back.

Boston Rocks II has a nice shot of this, top row, 4th photo

Location

This starts near the center of the overhang of the Alcove. Its start is near the beginning of the left-angling crack/ramp. It is left of the moon scoop.

Protection

Get a great spot, a big squishy pad, or use fine technique.

Photos

Yoni Musher
  5.12a V4 PG13
Yoni Musher  
  5.12a V4 PG13
Super fun climb, took me 2 days to get. Very, very sharp and sketchy finish, I only had one pad and no spotter. I would highly suggest more than one pad and a spotter. Feels more like a V4/V4+ to me. The sidepull crimp next to the big chalked crimp halfway up is very important, go for the little knob (very sharp). Oct 22, 2017
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick. Feb 22, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
This was the first "boulder problem" that I ever worked on. It was considered kinda hard BITD, especially w/o a pad. Nice problem. Jan 11, 2010