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Routes in Main Alcove Wall

Breakfast of Champions T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13
Crispy V1 5
Hammond Eggs V3 6A
High Traverse V5 6C
Kellogg's T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) V3-4 6A+
On the Box V6 7A
Over Easy V2 5+
Pop V2 5+
Scrambled V-easy 3
Slippery Crimps V1 5
Thank God Traverse V1 5
Warm Up Traverse V-easy 3
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 652 total, 9/month
Shared By: cstorms on Oct 2, 2011 with updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Sit start on the flake below Kellog's.. Move right hand to a crimp and then use two decent crimps to bump your left hand out and up to eventually link up with Kellog's. The crux is getting to, and then past that second left hand crimp up higher.

  • *Watch out for the starting flake, it was wobbling last time I was there, but it was still usable

Per Ben Duba, the starting flake to this problem broke recently. Now, the logical sit start begins with a left hand pinch and a right hand crimp. Thi grade of this problem will likely need to be readjusted after a consensus is reached.

Location

This is the sit start to Kellog's. It is just to the right of the beginning of the huge shelf.

Protection

A pad.

Photos

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Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
  V5
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
  V5
I encountered a gentleman yesterday who has been climbing at HP for many years, and he pointed out that the start hold for this has broken.

I had never tried it with the original start, but the current problem definitely feels at least a full grade easier than Beached Whale. Apr 13, 2015
I believe this problem has broken, specifically the starting flake. Sit start on left pinch and right crimp are the only obvious starting holds now and does not feel v6. Can anyone confirm this? Apr 3, 2015