[Hide Comment] Haha, I think there might be a typo. Otherwise those are the shortest pitches I have ever seen! Do one move, build an anchor, bring up the second, repeat 12 times. Mar 9, 2010

[Hide Comment] +1

I think that giving YDS grades in the style of Boston Rocks for routes at Hammond Pond that are (to my knowledge) exclusively bouldered on by a climbing community that expects Hueco grades for their problems is a bit... I dunno... archaic?

In any case, this feels solid V3, which is the grade it receives in the Kemple Guide. By modern comparisons that puts it in the 5.11+ range even if we are using YDS. That might be a better representation here. Nov 14, 2013

[Hide Comment] V3-/V3 I think. Easier than Breakfast. Old school grading of .10+ might not be all that unreasonable, when one is mindful of Cathedral and Gunks .10+ routes. Nov 15, 2013

[Hide Comment] True... but seeing as MP is primarily a platform for the most up-to-date route beta and not necessarily as a repository for historical information on these climbs (though I love that element of climbing in New England), I think that as a boulder problem, giving this a V-grade would be warranted.

Caveat: I'm also an upstart young climber, don't know shit when it comes to the scene in New England, and am in no way trying to step on toes of any of the history here. I'm just trying to put in my two cents for what seems like a incongruity on this specific page. Nov 16, 2013

[Hide Comment] I too agree V grade for this and Breakfast is more appropriate.
Sorry if I sounded harsh, I did not mean to. Nov 16, 2013

[Hide Comment] Super fun climb. There are two classic starts—one on left with feet on the big shelf the other on the hueco (shorter climbers may need to start a little lower): the left side has finicky feet, and the right side has fewer moves, but they're more muscley. Like everything in the Alcove, there's also a sit start that's probably a grade or two harder.

The top part of the mail slot on top of the ax handle side-cling hold broke this winter, and I haven't climbed it since. I think it doesn't affect the climb, but a heads up.... Will update once the snow melts.

Wanted to add: this feels V3- to me, easier than Breakfast of Champions or Hammond Eggs, but harder than Over Easy. Also, you need a pad as the landing is directly on a large rock. The stories about someone breaking their back on Breakfast sound to me like they were doing this climb without a pad. I've fallen countless times off Breakfast, and you always land to the left of the rock, but on this one the crux is right over it.

UPDATE: Yep, climb is unaffected. Mar 3, 2021

[Hide Comment] FWIW, the fall that Geoffrey took breaking his back occurred way before pads were used or even commercially made. Mar 8, 2021