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Routes in Main Alcove Wall

Breakfast of Champions T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2-3 5+ PG13
Crispy V1 5
Hammond Eggs V3 6A
High Traverse V5 6C
Kellogg's T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka) V3-4 6A+
On the Box V6 7A
Over Easy V2 5+
Pop V2 5+
Scrambled V-easy 3
Slippery Crimps V1 5
Thank God Traverse V1 5
Warm Up Traverse V-easy 3
Elevation: 25 ft
GPS: 42.323, -71.174 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,224 total, 85/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
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Description

This tiny bouldering area is probably fairly famous among New England climbers. Within this bit of rock are some quality moderates. Don’t let the moderate grades fool you. One famous climber broke his back here failing on the top out of a problem here. This is probably the most overhanging rock at Hammond Pond. Here's a nice shot from the MIT photo contest.

L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse (aka Chinese Vodka), V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.

Right Wall
J. traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.

Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.

Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.

V6/7 upper left photo

In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.

Getting There

At least in the old days, this is how we got there: this lies next west of Hammond Pond and is west of the Upper Walls. It is probably best to park close to the south side of Hammond Pond. From the parking south of Hammond Pond, take the dirt road and go left at the first fork. Continue to the next fork and near this fork, head almost straight west.

Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.

Updated List of Problems

The above list has been described as outdated.

Hence, Chris will edit in an updated list here.

13 Total Climbs

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Eric Ziemba
Watertown, MA
Eric Ziemba   Watertown, MA
The description of how to get there from the parking lot South of Hammond Pond, is WRONG.

From parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap. Aug 2, 2015

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