Elevation: 25 ft
GPS: 42.323, -71.174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,009 total · 177/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: COVID-19 Guidelines Details

Description

This tiny bouldering area is probably fairly famous among New England climbers. Within this bit of rock are some quality moderates. Don’t let the moderate grades fool you. One famous climber broke his back here failing on the top out of a problem here. This is probably the most overhanging rock at Hammond Pond. Here's a nice shot from the MIT photo contest.

L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse, V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.

 Right Wall
J. Easy Traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.

Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.

Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.

Beached Whale. V6/7 upper left photo

In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.

Getting There

At least in the old days, this is how we got there: this lies next west of Hammond Pond and is west of the Upper Walls. It is probably best to park close to the south side of Hammond Pond. From the parking south of Hammond Pond, take the dirt road and go left at the first fork. Continue to the next fork and near this fork, head almost straight west.

Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.

Updated List of Problems

The above list has been described as outdated.

Hence, Chris will edit in an updated list here.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Alcove Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 36
Scrambled
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 7
Sit On That
Boulder
V1 5
 16
Crispy
Boulder
V2 5+
 36
Over Easy
Boulder
V3 6A
 37
Hammond Eggs
Boulder
V3 6A
 14
Low Traverse
Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+
 17
Kellogg's
Trad, TR, Boulder
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3-4 6A+ PG13
 28
Breakfast of Champions
Trad, TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Scrambled
 36
V-easy 3 Boulder
Sit On That
 7
V0+ 4+ Boulder
Crispy
 16
V1 5 Boulder
Over Easy
 36
V2 5+ Boulder
Hammond Eggs
 37
V3 6A Boulder
Low Traverse
 14
V3 6A Boulder
Kellogg's
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2 5+ Trad, TR, Boulder
Breakfast of Champions
 28
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3-4 6A+ PG13 Trad, TR, Boulder
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