Main Alcove Wall Bouldering
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Elevation: | 25 ft | 8 m |
GPS: |
42.32285, -71.17406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 38,610 total · 177/month | |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates | |
Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
This tiny bouldering area is probably fairly famous among New England climbers. Within this bit of rock are some quality moderates. DonÂ’t let the moderate grades fool you. One famous climber broke his back here failing on the top out of a problem here. This is probably the most overhanging rock at Hammond Pond. Here's a nice shot from the MIT photo contest.
L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse, V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.
Right Wall
J. Easy Traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.
Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.
Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.
V6/7 upper left photo
In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.
L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse, V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.
Right Wall
J. Easy Traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.
Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.
Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.
V6/7 upper left photo
In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.
Getting There
At least in the old days, this is how we got there: this lies next west of Hammond Pond and is west of the Upper Walls. It is probably best to park close to the south side of Hammond Pond. From the parking south of Hammond Pond, take the dirt road and go left at the first fork. Continue to the next fork and near this fork, head almost straight west.
Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.
Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.
Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.
Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Alcove Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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