Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Dave Kennedy
Page Views: 1,320 total · 9/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 2, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

This route is described in the Mayr guide as 5.9* - Rock quality is suspect, 1st bolt is ridiculously low and to in my opinion didn't have a single .9 move on it. Saying it's .7 is generous.

It does however have sunny exposure and no approach. Bring a ropebag as the belay is dusty and dirty.

Location

South facing wall - furthest route on the left (while facing the wall) starts in a dirty narrow slot in front of a hook bush. First bolt is 4' from the ground and painted red.

Mayr guide - route 819

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors (which share with "power puff")

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
I thought this was a fun route and didn't have any issue with the quality of rock. Maybe most of the loose rock is now gone? May 26, 2008
Chris Asencio
Hesperia, CA
 
Chris Asencio   Hesperia, CA
 
This climb was fun when I lead to the left of bolts. It seemed more a 5.8 on left side. Right side was much easier, 5.6-5.7 Aug 29, 2011
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.8
This route is ok, but it suffers from being overbolted and it ends with an unnecessary traverse to the anchor which makes cleaning awkward. (It should have just ended at the last bolt.) It is soft for 5.9, especially with respect to "Fun in the Sun" on the same wall. On the plus side, it seems like much of the looseness has cleaned up over the past 9 years, and while still a little crumbly, overall it's pretty solid. May 1, 2016
Todd F
McMurdo Station, AQ
  5.7 PG13
Todd F   McMurdo Station, AQ
  5.7 PG13
5.6 climbing if the holds were solid but I would call it 5.8 technique/mental because of how delicate you have to be on the holds. I took a really scary whip when I went to clip the anchors and a jug completely blew. Would have taken a scary fall but horn caught a sling on my gear loop which thankfully held. A good number of the jugs flexed when pulled on, more than pretty much anywhere else I climbed in NJC.

Its easy actual climbing...but I would think a fourth upper bolt would be appropriate at grade and would protect a potential ground fall if what happened to me happened to
someone else. Dec 23, 2017