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Routes in Sunnyside

Cheap Lipstick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chick Flakey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Know S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun in the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Puff S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Hot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk In The Park S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Dave Kennedy
Page Views: 1,168 total, 9/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 2, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is described in the Mayr guide as 5.9* - Rock quality is suspect, 1st bolt is ridiculously low and to in my opinion didn't have a single .9 move on it. Saying it's .7 is generous.

It does however have sunny exposure and no approach. Bring a ropebag as the belay is dusty and dirty.

Location

South facing wall - furthest route on the left (while facing the wall) starts in a dirty narrow slot in front of a hook bush. First bolt is 4' from the ground and painted red.

Mayr guide - route 819

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors (which share with "power puff")

Photos

Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.8
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.8
This route is ok, but it suffers from being overbolted and it ends with an unnecessary traverse to the anchor which makes cleaning awkward. (It should have just ended at the last bolt.) It is soft for 5.9, especially with respect to "Fun in the Sun" on the same wall. On the plus side, it seems like much of the looseness has cleaned up over the past 9 years, and while still a little crumbly, overall it's pretty solid. May 1, 2016
Chris Asencio
Hesperia, CA
 
Chris Asencio   Hesperia, CA
 
This climb was fun when I lead to the left of bolts. It seemed more a 5.8 on left side. Right side was much easier, 5.6-5.7 Aug 29, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
I thought this was a fun route and didn't have any issue with the quality of rock. Maybe most of the loose rock is now gone? May 26, 2008