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Routes in Sunnyside

Cheap Lipstick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chick Flakey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Know S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun in the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Puff S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Hot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk In The Park S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 431 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nelson Day on May 28, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Hard move off the deck to make the first clip, and another hard sequence to make the second clip. Very sequential and height dependent move to make the third clip. Sustained through the next two clips, and easier terrain to the anchor. The anchor on this route is a indoor gym type clip anchor designed for TR. Full sustained value at the grade!

Location

Sunnyside crags just left of Dr Know. Start in the overhanging cave type area.

Protection

5 bolts and clip type anchor

Photos

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Powerful and awkward movements off the deck. A left hand crimp by the second bolt broke in my hand while foot chips crumbled away when attempting to clip the third bolt. Didn't finish due to safety concerns Nov 30, 2015
Didn't like this route. I was fine through the first two clips. I was too short (5'7") to hit the large hold at the 3rd bolt without basically dynoing. The side pull holds, IMO, would prove harder than 12a to make the sequence work. I called in the longer arms of my friend to finish this one. Booooooo Feb 19, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Second that. If you blow it while pulling rope on the 2nd bolt, the ground is pretty hard. Very cool first moves. Jan 21, 2013
Ian McG
  5.12b PG13
Ian McG  
  5.12b PG13
Good route. Clipping the 2nd bolt is HARD, don't blow it. Feels like it's missing a hold or two around bolts 2 and 3. Dec 22, 2012