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Routes in Sunnyside

Cheap Lipstick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chick Flakey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Know S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun in the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Puff S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Hot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk In The Park S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,703 total · 12/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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74 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

Climb up bolt protected boulder to ledge. Long reach or magic feet to gain well chalked flake. Use positive flake then finger crack to gain footing. Follow bolt line to anchors. Fun!

Location [Edit]

Start just below large bolt protected boulder. Large boulder for viewing directly behind the start of this route. SCSG 3rd edition route 821

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts to chain anchors


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Extremely fun route. Guidebook shows no stars, I gave it two and could easily be convinced of 3 stars. Interesting moves using flake & crack. Possibly the best route I've done so far are Sunnyside!!

~Susan Jan 28, 2007
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Fairly cool move to gain the big flake. Much easier if you are over 7ft and pretty strong. Standard pulling will get you to the top. Jan 28, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
One-hit wonder, but still a lot of fun. Mostly 5.9 climbing with a well protected 5.10-ish crux. Sep 20, 2007
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
you can easily go around the first bolt and belay from the giant ledge between bolts one and two. I would not recommend this though, the jug/flake to get through the crux is thin and feels pretty weak. Having the belay at the bottom should help protect, or at least give them a chance to adjust,if it breaks off. Otherwise I thought it was a super fun route. Feb 2, 2012
Clif Clap  
Really fun route. A couple of reachy moves including getting your hands on the namesake flake. Good opportunity to apply the bouldering moves you've done in the gym to a sport route. Jan 1, 2014

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