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Routes in Sunnyside

Cheap Lipstick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chick Flakey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Know S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun in the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Puff S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Hot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk In The Park S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 987 total, 8/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

If you've got time for one more route with southern exposure this may be a good bet. Route follows obvious bolt line to summit and provides fun and positive holds. Vertical but not steep and gets that "one more" route in. Much better than its sister "Dr. Know" which is found to the left.

Location

Middle route on south face of Sunnyside sandwiched between "Dr.Know - .10b" and "Walk in the Park - .8" SCSG 3rd edition route 825

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchor

Photos

I climbed this route yesterday 2/12/17 and notice at blot three - the hanger was pretty loose and was able to swing around the locking nut. Not sure if this is an issue - just thought i would bring it up. Feb 13, 2017
Clif Clap
  5.10a
Clif Clap  
  5.10a
I found Dr. Know harder to read and bit more sustained. This one cruises for a few bolts until it transitions into 10a climbing at about the third bolt. Stays pretty sustained at that level up through the closing crux bulge. Decent route. May 24, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
The best of the bunch here with thoughtful climbing down low and a juggy finish out a bulge. Seems a little easier than the nearby "Welcome to NJC". Feb 24, 2012
steple
  5.10c
steple  
  5.10c
The 'undercling thing' makes frightening sounds when you pull on it. Feb 20, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10
Definitely harder than Dr. Know. Move through a few sidepulls after the 3rd bolt and then past the "underclingy thing", which is the crux. First 10 of the season. What an ugly display! HA! Jan 31, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.10
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.10
Much better than Dr. Know. My guidebook rates it harder, but it's straightforward unlike the awkward Dr. Know. Sep 20, 2007
duh
duh  
I don't know what the guide says, however Gold finger is one grade harder than Dr Know to the left and is a better route. Feb 1, 2007
Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
Jack recently added a bolt to the start of this route. Previously this route and the one to the left shared the same start. But with all the traffic these routes see Jack felt a seperate start was appropriate. Jan 28, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
Good route to a snazzy underclingy roofy thingy crux up high. Jan 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Route described as 10a in guidebook. Route seems to be a bit more difficult than its counterpart "Dr. Know" to the left but much better. I say more like 10b and throw in a star. If you're looking for a few good routes at the end of the day close to the car this and "chick flakey" may be a good choice.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007