Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 1,015 total · 7/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

41 Opinions

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Route is easily identifiable by bolt line. All bolts seem to clip from the left. This route is awkward and you are nearly forced to use one arm gastons. Extremely difficult to see holds and bolts during low sun in the winter.


First route on left on south face of Sunnyside crag - directly next to .12a "Red Hot". SCSG 3rd edition route 824


4 bolts to shut anchors


Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Awkward and leaning... sun adds three letter grades for sure. Bring welders goggles if you plan of seeing any holds out to your left as the sun is going down. Jan 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This route should be called Dr. NO! Do the route to the right as it's much cleaner and enjoyable IMO.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Awkward with most holds seeming to face the wrong way. If you gotta do this one, try it in morning or midday, the afternoon sun problem ain't no joke. Jan 28, 2007
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
totally concur with my fellow JTree residents...AWKWARD to say the least...interesting and fun though...and IMHO...it's HARDER than the 10c to the right. Nov 23, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Dr. Know spanked me on lead but this is a great route! Sustained .10a followed by sustained .10b; that crossing move at the third bolt is mind blowing. The fact that the holds all face the wrong way is exactly what makes this climb memorable! I highly recommend this route. Mar 30, 2009
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
More technical than strenuous but not the most enjoyable route with it's tedious lower section, fortunately the upper section redeems it slightly. Feb 24, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
Did this route in the sun, just read the comment now. I agree - the sun adds a lot of spice as most of the feet felt very slick, and all of the holds were facing the wrong direction for the feet. Felt 10+ or 11- for sure. Reminded me of frustration creek climbs. Good variety compared to the typical routes in the area! May 28, 2012
Clif Clap
Clif Clap  
I gave it a 10b/c as the some of the feet were quite slippery. I also climbed it in the sun so perhaps that's why. Though I agree it's awkward in parts, notably between the second and third anchors, the moves are there and work your mind a bit to figure them out. It's at least worth doing once. May 24, 2013
PSU Kat  
Couldn't reach the 4th bolt w/out loosing the only decent feet. Sketchy move for a short leader pushing their grade. (I'm 5'4') Jan 5, 2017