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Routes in Sunnyside

Cheap Lipstick S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chick Flakey S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Know S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fun in the Sun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Powder Puff S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Red Hot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walk In The Park S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 935 total, 7/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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41 Opinions

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Description

Route is easily identifiable by bolt line. All bolts seem to clip from the left. This route is awkward and you are nearly forced to use one arm gastons. Extremely difficult to see holds and bolts during low sun in the winter.

Location

First route on left on south face of Sunnyside crag - directly next to .12a "Red Hot". SCSG 3rd edition route 824

Protection

4 bolts to shut anchors
PSU Kat
  5.10b/c
PSU Kat  
  5.10b/c
Couldn't reach the 4th bolt w/out loosing the only decent feet. Sketchy move for a short leader pushing their grade. (I'm 5'4') Jan 5, 2017
Clif Clap
  5.10b/c
Clif Clap  
  5.10b/c
I gave it a 10b/c as the some of the feet were quite slippery. I also climbed it in the sun so perhaps that's why. Though I agree it's awkward in parts, notably between the second and third anchors, the moves are there and work your mind a bit to figure them out. It's at least worth doing once. May 24, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10+
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10+
Did this route in the sun, just read the comment now. I agree - the sun adds a lot of spice as most of the feet felt very slick, and all of the holds were facing the wrong direction for the feet. Felt 10+ or 11- for sure. Reminded me of frustration creek climbs. Good variety compared to the typical routes in the area! May 28, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
More technical than strenuous but not the most enjoyable route with it's tedious lower section, fortunately the upper section redeems it slightly. Feb 24, 2012
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Dr. Know spanked me on lead but this is a great route! Sustained .10a followed by sustained .10b; that crossing move at the third bolt is mind blowing. The fact that the holds all face the wrong way is exactly what makes this climb memorable! I highly recommend this route. Mar 30, 2009
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
totally concur with my fellow JTree residents...AWKWARD to say the least...interesting and fun though...and IMHO...it's HARDER than the 10c to the right. Nov 23, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Awkward with most holds seeming to face the wrong way. If you gotta do this one, try it in morning or midday, the afternoon sun problem ain't no joke. Jan 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route should be called Dr. NO! Do the route to the right as it's much cleaner and enjoyable IMO.

~Susan Jan 28, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10+
Awkward and leaning... sun adds three letter grades for sure. Bring welders goggles if you plan of seeing any holds out to your left as the sun is going down. Jan 28, 2007