Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,767 total · 19/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

Climb the handcrack on the left side of the bowl 30 feet to the roof crack. Turn the roof via the crack on the left side. You can belay above, but it's better to place long slings and continue to the top. Continue following the crack system above over a few bulges and to the top of the cliff. Good rock for the first 30 feet, great rock after.

Location

Near the right end of the Dark Side Wall, this is the 8 foot triangular roof about 30 feet off the ground. Start in the crack below it.

Protection

Gear to 3.5". Many slings to help rope drag. Rap off trees or hike over to Diet Pepsi and rap off bolts.
Dennis England
Tulsa, OK
Dennis England   Tulsa, OK
Just did this beautiful climb this weekend. It has what appear to be brand new anchors at the top. Be ready for a 2nd crux right at the top just before the anchors. Aug 1, 2011
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
FA: 1987 Billy Biswanger. SOB stole my project... Oct 26, 2011
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great route. If, like me, this route is near your limit, I have a few suggestions: (1) Dont bring just a standard rack. Take lots of 1s, 2s, and 3s. It eats them up. (2) Lots of runners. I botched the rope management on this. (3) Next time I will belay from the top, on the bolted anchor, and then rap off. Jun 7, 2013
Will Haden
KC, MO
 
Will Haden   KC, MO
 
Take a BD #5 for the top crux. Makes it much less scary. Sep 5, 2017
Jonathan Field
Tulsa, OK
 
Jonathan Field   Tulsa, OK
 
I found that a BD #3 or a BD silver stopper works best to protect the upper crux. My partner and I did not think a #5 up top was necessary or ideal. Great route! Nov 13, 2017
JD Borgeson  
 
Got the rope stuck on this one after reaching the top. try to keep the rope out of the crack after completing the roof! Sep 18, 2018