Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Sandy Fleming, Lezley McIlveen, Scott Hall 1985
Page Views: 745 total · 5/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 1, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb 20 feet up a dirty slab, starting left of the groove. Angle right and gain the diagonal crack. Follow it up and righ until it ends after about 30 feet. Then, continue up on face climbing, pulling a spicy top out on decent rock. The rock in between the slab and the top out is excellent.

Location

This route starts right of the huge roof at the left end of the Dark Side Wall. Start on a slab that heads up to a left angling crack running through a roof. Notice the right angling diagonal hand crack starting 20 feet up. Take it and enjoy the ride.

Protection

Pro to 3". Rap off trees, or hike to a top accessed bolted anchor.

Photos

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this route now has bolted anchors. Jul 2, 2007
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
More people should climb this route. The jams are *so* good. With more traffic and less lichen, this could easily be an area classic. May 26, 2014
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
I didn't have any use for a #3 on this climb. I used a yellow #2 Camalot to protect the final moves to the anchor which is the only spot that I saw that might accept a 3. The start is rather sketchy getting to the crack. Be careful. Don't let that deter you from getting on this excellent climb. Jan 31, 2016