Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Greg Donaldson, Brian Cox, 1972.
Page Views: 6,692 total · 46/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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From below the obvious, right-leaning, parallel cracks, climb up past bushes and follow the cracks for three pitches. Rappel off.


Pro to 2".


Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
Right hand splitter (5.10b) is quite amazing too.

One way to do the approach is to do a 5.7 slab pitch to the tree... we tried to figure out the scrambling approach but it looks dirty and requires probably just as much time as doing the 5.7 slab... which starts only 50 feet from the trail

From the tree, one pitch leads to the fat bolts on top of the flake (no need to stop at the earlier bolted belay station) with a 60 meter rope... from there you could make it to the top directly, but it's better to move the belay up and right (small ledge/stance to the left of a bolted rappel station) Oct 11, 2011
Lana dude  
The scramble approach around the toe got us lost. Came back next day and did direct start for better results. 5 pitches total. To approach the direct start head downhill 40 feet after the aqueduct goes into tunnel. As you skirt rock edge there's a wide step over a gap and shortly after you'll see a 15ft corner and a bolt above. Roped up here and could see obvious white scar further up wall to give our bearings. Fairly easy climbing although the gear and bolts were sparse enough to keep my attention (I'd avoid direct start if rock is wet). The rest of route protects well. On official pitch 1 we climbed the left edge of white scar feature past roof to a 2-bolt anchor under flake. We used this anchor to replenish rack, and make communication with belayer easier. Whole climb was enjoyable. It got windy in late afternoon as route went into shade. Took 2 raps to get down with two 60m ropes. Curious if it can be rapped with 1 rope for next time? May 28, 2013
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
I don't think the rap from the top of the route would go with a 70m. Ours came up short. Luckily we had a second rope. A #4 is useful to protect the offwidth on the second pitch. Apr 5, 2015
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
I've approached this route both by going around the toe and also by doing the direct start. I'd say the latter is just as quick, less scrambling up dirty gullies, and it's a more direct rappel back to your packs. Plus you'll get an extra pitch of climbing. There are 5 bolts on the direct start slab, plus some pro options to reduce the runout. Lana is spot on with how to find the start.

Official Pitch #1 will be the crux unless you have huge mitts and can fist jam the offwidth. Otherwise it's dam awkward!. You'll appreciate some big gear, forget the "pro to 2".

Official Pitch #3 is absolutely stellar. You'd be hard pressed to find a cleaner, steeper 5.8 finger jam anywhere. Moderate finger jam cracks seem to get compared to West crack in Tuolumne, it's considerably better than that. Haven't done Sands of Time yet, maybe that's better? But awesome never the less. Apr 5, 2015
This climb has its all. The approach pitch is a bit of a lichen hike. The "off width" is a move and a #4 can be used but might get in the way... Way cool undercling to easy hands. The finger crack is as good as West Crack and Sands of Time and more sustained fun. May 16, 2015
Did someone say "wind"?? We were blasted by sustained and fierce (50mph) winds as we gained height at the end of April. Made for some interesting climbing, but at least we earned it.

This is a very enjoyable moderate climb, with nice variety. Slab/face, a token wide section, undercling, nice hand cracks, and a stellar twin fingercrack. Worth doing if you are in the area.

It would be nice to link the direct start with p#2 but I don't think even a 70m would make it - a 60m definitely does not. Single set of cams to #4 and small-medium nuts work well. Double up on finger and off-finger cams if you want more pro. The rap from the top of the money pitch (twin cracks) does NOT go with a 60m, and it doesn't look like it would go with a 70m either - not sure. The next rap goes with a single 60m. From there you can get to the ground (just) with two 60m ropes, or there is an intermediate station (did not measure whether a single 60m would get you down from that one).

Overall, super fun. First pitch is indeed covered in lichen, but get on it, people! Second was mellow for me, but the wYde is my strong suit. Undercling is very secure and easier that it looks, and then lets up to a very low angle hand crack. The finger cracks live up to their reputation: clean, pure and juicy - pick left, right, or both, and go! May 1, 2016
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
Approach to direct pitch: Agree with Lana. Make sure you're staying up high ("skirting the rock") instead of going down lower where there seems to be an easier trail. You'll be scrambling across rocks (where you step over the big gap) to get to the base of the first slab pitch. Probably 20-30 feet west of, and 30 feet down from where the aqueduct goes into the tunnel.

For climbing the direct pitch: after the first few bolts, stay left to continue finding bolts. You might be tempted to go to the right, where there's gear placements. Once you get to the top of this slab pitch, go past the small/medium tree that's on your left and continue climbing up and right to where there is an anchor above the bush/small tree growing out of the crack. Belaying from here will make it easier to communicate with your leader after they've done the second pitch. Note that if you do continue up to the anchor that's past the bush/small tree instead of anchoring at the first small/medium tree, be prepared to pull the off-width roof that's before the small tree/bush. Bring a #4 (or two) to protect the off-width moves. As for the move itself, I intuitively tried locking my left knee into the crack first, but eventually switch to starting with my right side in, and that worked much better. Arm bar and chicken-wing your way up!

Pitch 3 (awesome finger crack pitch): I chose the left crack. The crack is the same size for a majority of the pitch. I think I placed a .4 and a #3 before starting up the main, sustained section of the crack, and once I was on the sustained portion, I wish I'd had four or more 0.5's. So if you and your partner have doubles of 0.5 and you want to sew it up, bring them all with you!

Rap: Not sure how some people rapped this in 2 raps with just 60's. We brought two 70's and tried rapping the route in 2 raps, but the ropes did not reach the ground where we started the direct/slab pitch. I rapped to the ends of the ropes, then sketchily down-climbed another 20-30 feet to reach the ground. My partner followed me by rapping to climber's right (where there's the start of Wings and Stings). So either rap to the right and scramble back to your packs, or do it in 3 raps. Sep 18, 2017
It is possible to rap from the top of P3 to the rap station right below the twin cracks with one 70M but it involves some precarious balancing and untying. Definitely tie knots but just bring a 2nd rope. Nov 16, 2017
Sandy Sum
Sandy Sum   California
We tried to walk off as instructed here: cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim… as we only had a 60m (I acknowledge that it was an ill-informed choice). Could not find the walk off and had to fashion a rappel from the neighbouring route Wings and Stings. We climbed another pitch to the tree as drawn here:web.stanford.edu/~clint/cal…, and rapped from the tree to the last rap bolts on Wings on Stings and made it down after 3 more pitches. Note: the last rap bolts (labeled 1) for Wings and Stings shown in the diagram is no longer there, it is about 15-20ft to the right, almost straight down from rap bolts 2. Hopefully, our bail slings and carabiner can also save someone stranded in the same situation one day.

The climb itself is great! I enjoyed official P2 immensely: pulling from an undercling to delicate footwork on higher slabs with an awkward sidepull to get to good hands. Jan 15, 2018
brooks munyer
Reno, NV
brooks munyer   Reno, NV
Can rap from the top with an 80 in 4 raps. I thought it was an okay route. The twin cracks pitch is great, but I'm not sure the approach pitches and the raps are worth the hassle. You can Trope the .10 pitch after finishing the route, which is a perk! May 9, 2018