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Routes in Hammer Dome

Gemini Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Smoke Screen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeaks of Gold T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wings and Stings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, 1978.
Page Views: 1,418 total, 11/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route climbs, five pitches up a slab to the right of "Wings and Stings" and to the right of a tall pine tree.
Approach through bushes and poison oak to a line of bolts, to the right of the pine and a black water streak.
Climb past six bolts (5.10a) to a belay anchor. Another 5.10a pitch leads past five bolts to a two bolt anchor.
From here either rappel or continue up two more easier pitches and a class 4 pitch to the top.


Draws and some gear.


Patrick M.
  5.10b R
Patrick M.   Vancouver
  5.10b R
The first 2 pitches are good but definitely run out. There is room for a couple 2-3 cams but I can't remember exactly which ones except for the #3 I used at the start of the 2 pitch). I found that to keep it 10a on the 2nd pitch, the path of least (mental?) resistance often involved clipping a bolt and then traversing to climb up under the next one.

The third pitch involves some bush walking in wasp infected terrain. I could not find the bolt mentioned in the topo at the top of that pitch.

On the fourth pitch, don't follow the final diedre all the way to the top. You need to veer left towards a tree where you will find the rap rings. Then you need to rap completely to the left in order to find the second rap station. Oct 7, 2013