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Routes in Hammer Dome

Gemini Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Smoke Screen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeaks of Gold T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wings and Stings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mary Wagstaff, Jeff Altenburg (1978?)
Page Views: 4,450 total, 34/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 28, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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21 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the obvious right-leaning, right facing corner, to the right of "Gemini Cracks".

Wander up a bushy ramp to a broken area beneath the main corner. Climb a pitch to the base of the leaning corner and belay.

Follow the corner to a belay below a roof (5.7).

A 5.6 pitch leads right, around the roof and up to a belay.

Rappel.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Agreed with comments. Funish pitch of dihedral layback/stem. Very straightforward after the 5.7 crack up.
If you want to see it up bring doubles to 3 or 4

I had pro to 2 and found it adaquate. Great views of cal dome across the creek
I probably wouldn't do it again due to the awkward cramming, plus the loads of great surrounding crack Nov 2, 2014
Tim Camuti
Placerville, CA
  5.7
Tim Camuti   Placerville, CA
  5.7
One of my new favorite routes. The supposed 5.8 start to the beginning of P2 did not feel that hard in the dry days of August at 11am. Fantastic friction for the feet meant I just needed to slot hands for a place the hold, looks like a lieback but not strenuous for me. Lots of great nut placements in the small range. Great pro, great rock, secure climbing and holds, just a fun route. Rappel on one 60m rope (three raps, 1 bolt station with rap hangers 2 with chains)
Route (east facing) was in the shade most of the climb, made it climbable in August, but the dome is too low in elevation to tackle other climbs in August. Aug 19, 2009
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.7
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.7
Pretty clean dispite some seepage. Nice and sustained through the corner. You can do it in two pitches with a 70m rope. It was good for the grade but I'll never do it again. Tweaks the hell out of your back from leaning to one side for so long.

Lots of old 1/4 inch bolt stems along the route - WTF? Oct 1, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.7
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.7
One of my very favorite routes on the planet!!

The dihedral takes LOTS of 1/2"-3/4" gear. Bring extra or plan to leap-frog your gear up the crack. Apr 24, 2007