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Routes in Wilmington Notch - High Falls Crag

Multiplication Gully WI3+
Tannin Bomb (aka Yellow Pillars) WI4+ M4
Type: Ice, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Spero, Tom Worthington 2/4/75
Page Views: 7,665 total, 57/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


80 Opinions

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Description

Depending on how well it's formed, the crux is either at the chimney or at the very top exit move.

Location

Double-rope rappel or walk off to the left towards Wilmington (walk off is a pain - no trail - pretty alpine exit).

Protection

Screws and small trad rack if it's thin (fist-sized cam for the crux chimney if the ice is thin).
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
  WI3+
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
  WI3+
At the end of the first pitch (large platform), you can safely belay on the right side where you'll find some rock gear placements. #.5 C4, Yellow C3, and or tri-cams. Jan 9, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  WI3-4
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  WI3-4
mmm, there aren't any photos of the start of P2 before the ice above touches down. The route can be quite "cruxy" there in those conditions.

10 min. road to base ? May 23, 2016
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
The "trail head" is at 44°20'24.6"N 73°53'25.4"W. It's marked a 4'x2'x2' boulder. About a 10 min approach to the climb. It's on the right as you drive from Lake Placid to Whiteface ski resort. The parking area is on your left about 200 yards further down the road. There's room for 4 maybe 5 cars if you park facing the road. Feb 13, 2016
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch. May 21, 2013
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  WI3+
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  WI3+
Steep Approach! Fun first pitch and an excellent 2nd pitch! 60m rope needed for the 2nd pitch! Great views and winds make it feel like an alpine route Apr 12, 2012
Auto-X Fil
NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Auto-X Fil   NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.

You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing. May 25, 2011
Matt Jungers
  WI3+
Matt Jungers  
  WI3+
I'll second Adam's comment. There's really no sense in hopping on the route with a party above whether they're experienced or inexperienced. Ice will inevitably be sent down the gully, and you WILL be in the firing line. A short first pitch up to the cedars on the left will set you up for a money 2nd pitch to the top. Mar 28, 2007
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down. Mar 1, 2007