Type: Ice, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Alan Spero, Tom Worthington 2/4/75
Page Views: 8,898 total · 60/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

72 Opinions

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Depending on how well it's formed, the crux is either at the chimney or at the very top exit move.


Double-rope rappel or walk off to the left towards Wilmington (walk off is a pain - no trail - pretty alpine exit).


Screws and small trad rack if it's thin (fist-sized cam for the crux chimney if the ice is thin).
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down. Mar 1, 2007
Matt Jungers
Matt Jungers  
I'll second Adam's comment. There's really no sense in hopping on the route with a party above whether they're experienced or inexperienced. Ice will inevitably be sent down the gully, and you WILL be in the firing line. A short first pitch up to the cedars on the left will set you up for a money 2nd pitch to the top. Mar 28, 2007
Auto-X Fil
NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Auto-X Fil   NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.

You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing. May 25, 2011
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
Steep Approach! Fun first pitch and an excellent 2nd pitch! 60m rope needed for the 2nd pitch! Great views and winds make it feel like an alpine route Apr 12, 2012
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch. May 21, 2013
Albany, NY
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
The "trail head" is at 44°20'24.6"N 73°53'25.4"W. It's marked a 4'x2'x2' boulder. About a 10 min approach to the climb. It's on the right as you drive from Lake Placid to Whiteface ski resort. The parking area is on your left about 200 yards further down the road. There's room for 4 maybe 5 cars if you park facing the road. Feb 13, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
mmm, there aren't any photos of the start of P2 before the ice above touches down. The route can be quite "cruxy" there in those conditions.

10 min. road to base ? May 23, 2016
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
At the end of the first pitch (large platform), you can safely belay on the right side where you'll find some rock gear placements. #.5 C4, Yellow C3, and or tri-cams. Jan 9, 2017
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Great route! Parking lot is fairly big (enough for half a dozen cars) and is on the right when approaching from Whiteface, about 0.8 miles from the High Falls Gorge on Route 86. Trailhead is marked by a small rectangular boulder (towards pullout) and a small triangular boulder (a few m down the road). First pitch is about 20 m to the tree on the left, about grade 2-3. Second pitch is a full 60 m, and grade 3+ depending on the conditions. There are fixed slings and rings at both belays. As stated above, it would not be advisable to climb below another party. I've done this route four times and I've never needed rock gear, but it's always been in good shape. Jan 17, 2018