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America's Playground V2 5+
Beyond Life V10 7C+
Beyond Life (Sit) V12 8A+
Lumberjack V8 7B
Mr. Duck V7 7A+
Shadow of Death V5- 6C
Sunshine Day Dream V7- 7A+
They Call Him Jordan V8 7B
Tubesnake Boogie V9 7C
Two Towers V6 7A
Wills A Fire V6 7A
Worst Case Scenario V9- 7C PG13
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,374 total · 51/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I thought this seemed a bit hard for the grade, but my crimping isn't what I'd like it to be...

Start with your left hand at the top of the left rail and your right on the right slash.

Very aesthetic climbing on gorgeous slashes in the face are what this problem is all about. The holds lend themselves to very tension-filled moves and the crux is right in the middle with a very powerful deadpoint. This is a fine problem in every regard.

Pad the landing well.

It looks like someone has done a sit-start to this brutal problem too. No idea what it's called or how much harder it is though.

Location

Far left side of the main wall.

Protection

Pads, spotter(s)

Photos

I did a sit start to this a couple years ago, it is named prefabricated dreams of constant change.. just kidding- its called beyond life sit start.. I figured its on the harder end of v11/12, and its great.. Jul 27, 2008
tcamillieri
Denver
  V10
tcamillieri   Denver
  V10
One of the greatest boulder problems in America. The start is to be "matched" and crossed on the curved feature (I put matched in quotes because there is a deep incut for the right hand and any flat part of the rail for the left. Starting on the slopey sidepull and the rail is starting one move in. I just thought the poster's description was a bit ambiguous.

I heard a rumor that Dave Graham did the FA? Sep 2, 2009
Dave found it and cleaned it, but I got the FA, Matt Bosley did the sit that same day or that week. Around 2001-2002. Sorry to burst your bubble Chris Schulte.. Sep 30, 2015
Kehl!
Strikes again.. Ships that pass in the night..
At least it was Boz this time.. Apr 13, 2016

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