Type: | Boulder, 25 ft (8 m) |
FA: | Anthony Chertudi |
Page Views: | 1,096 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Chris Deuto on Mar 31, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Aeon Aki, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
I've noticed that Joe's Valley seems to have a collection of boulders V9-12 that are rarely done, despite being known about and ranking amongst the best in the area. Maybe it's the lack of beta videos, or longer approaches? Some of these lines include Zodiac, Zero, and Kill List. Anyway, this is a lesser popular V11 that deserves to be popular, and it probably would be, if not for the heinous (by Joe's standards) approach.
Start standing in the middle of the face on a left hand crimp, right hand slopey pocket feature. Three moves on dishes and pockets culminate in a long throw to a good hole. Though the crux is over, the climb is not. Long reaches between positive pockets lead to a relatively easy, but quite high and scary lip encounter via some hidden slopey dishes. Pull over the lip at around 20ish feet, and continue up the huge 5.2 slab to the summit. Simply brilliant.
Location
On the "Devil Boulder" high above Wills A'Fire. From the main cluster of roadside boulders at the area, continue way up the hill, always staying right of the drainage. The boulder is a full 10-15m past Sunshine Day Dream. Cairns are in place, and if you manage to stay on the rough trail, you'll run right into the face. Kill List climbs directly up the center of the main overhang.
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