Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,260 total · 49/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

A Joe's classic. Start the same as Wills of Fire on the lower right side of the wall, but move left at the big pocket with a big gaston move. From there either do the big dyno straight up or cheat a little and move way out left to a sidepull before hitting the top hold. Topout straight above.

Location

Walk up the trail from the road and follow it around left and then back uphill to the main wall.

Protection

A few crashpads and an attentive spotter or two.

Photos

Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The first female ascent was by Angie Payne in 2005 or 2006. From the sequence of photos of her climbing the problem on page 63 of Climbing magazine #250, she used the left sidepull method. Dec 29, 2013
healyc  
Anyone know who did the first ascent? Was it Jason kehl? Also curious if the first ascensionist did it from the sit or the stand. Mar 16, 2015
Did the Gaston hold break recently or has it always been like that? Jun 4, 2018
B Woods
Chattanooga TN
B Woods   Chattanooga TN
It does seem the Gaston hold is broken. I uploaded a picture of the hold that I took today (8/29/18). Total bummer, probably still goes but that move it going to be hard... Aug 29, 2018
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
In regards to the broken hold, it just chipped away a bit. Climb is still v8, if anything just more solid than it once was. I think it broke sometime in the late fall of 2017, early spring of 2018. Once stuff breaks here it tends to be significantly more fragile though, so I wouldn't be surprised if the lifespan of this problem is a bit limited in its current state...edit, nevermind, it looks like the hold broke twice, the second break was much more significant. I'd go so far as to say the problem kinda sucks now. Sep 24, 2018
David Holland
Herriman, UT
David Holland   Herriman, UT
Since the double-break the climb is significantly harder. Nov 3, 2018