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Beyond Life

V10, Boulder,  Avg: 3.9 from 27 votes
FA: Jason Kehl
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Left Fork > Right Sign Area
Warning Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! DetailsDrop down

Description

I thought this seemed a bit hard for the grade, but my crimping isn't what I'd like it to be...Start matched on the slash feature with your right hand in an incut at the far left of the rail and your left hand anywhere else on the rail.Very aesthetic climbing on gorgeous slashes in the face are what this problem is all about. The holds lend themselves to very tension-filled moves and the crux is right in the middle with a very powerful deadpoint. This is a fine problem in every regard.Pad the landing well.The sit is called, shockingly, Beyond Life Sit and was originally called V12 by the first ascentionist (or this was widely regarded as consensus for some time). Some folks call it V11 these days. Arm span for this particular climb (not total body length, seems like long arms and short legs would fit very well) is a huge determining factor in the difficulty.

Location

Far left side of the main wall.

Protection

Pads, spotter(s)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt starting up.
[Hide Photo] Matt starting up.
Nick on Beyond Life
[Hide Photo] Nick on Beyond Life
Heel hook move
[Hide Photo] Heel hook move

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I did a sit start to this a couple years ago, it is named prefabricated dreams of constant change.. just kidding- its called beyond life sit start.. I figured its on the harder end of v11/12, and its great.. Jul 27, 2008
tcamillieri
Denver
  V10
[Hide Comment] One of the greatest boulder problems in America. The start is to be "matched" and crossed on the curved feature (I put matched in quotes because there is a deep incut for the right hand and any flat part of the rail for the left. Starting on the slopey sidepull and the rail is starting one move in. I just thought the poster's description was a bit ambiguous.

I heard a rumor that Dave Graham did the FA? Sep 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] Dave found it and cleaned it, but I got the FA, Matt Bosley did the sit that same day or that week. Around 2001-2002. Sorry to burst your bubble Chris Schulte.. Sep 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] Kehl!
Strikes again.. Ships that pass in the night..
At least it was Boz this time.. Apr 13, 2016
Noah Kaufman
Earth
  V10
[Hide Comment] Just want to add that the name came about after we all went to Price to watch the movie "13 Ghosts". In that flick, a lawyer is sliced in half by a glass door. I said "Whoa! That dude is beyond life!" haha! Jason liked that phrase for some reason and gave the name to the line. I was finally strong enough to do it years later! youtu.be/ovoKuYZeZPY Dec 10, 2018