Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bumble Bee Wall

Addis Ababa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Check Point Charlie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fowl Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercy Buckets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mercy Street T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perseverance Bulge Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sin Nombre T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Upchuck T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 345 total, 3/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Jam the finger and off finger crack up to the two piton anchor. The second pitch could be combined with the first and both pitches eat up the medium sized nuts. Nice, stout grade and the best route on this wall by a long shot!

Location

Start in the crack 10 or 15' right of Check Point Charlie or two cracks right of the Bee Pitch. This one diaganols at a different angle than the others and starts just before the gap in the cliffs as you cross over to Perserverence Bulge.

Protection

Loads of medium nuts (especially the offsets), TCU's through #3 camalot, runners. Its kinda fun to dust off the tricams too.

Photos

Mulch
SLC, Utah
  5.9+
Mulch   SLC, Utah
  5.9+
Followed this today and felt the route was pretty sustained throughout the entire climb. Perseverance bulge Crack is definitely WAY easier IMO. Also watch out for the Hornets nest about 40' up the climb. My buddy almost decided to take a whipper after being stung on the neck 3 times. Stay as far left on the crack as possible once you get up to around that height. Aug 5, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Best route on the wall. This is a great climb for those looking to break into 5.9 Trad leads. Start is the business, but the rest is cruiser. The second pitch was well worth it, however I opted to down climb it. I'd recommend running it as one pitch, just be ready to adventure down to the fowl play anchors. Also, the webbing was looking pretty old, I would bring a knife and new webbing if I were to do it again. I would say no to bolting any anchors as I enjoy having the area to myself, plus you wanted an adventure right? I should mention that I encountered a bat in the crack just below the old rusty piton. I initially thought it was old black nylon stuffed into the crack until I noticed it was breathing. Crazy cool. Apr 28, 2015
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
With regards to anchors, I found them pretty easy to make using tricams. No need for bolted anchors; it's a wall of choss anyway, so you may as well get in the full spirit Oct 20, 2014
Ball
Oakridge, OR
Ball   Oakridge, OR
Did both pitches in one. I knocked down a 50lb+ rock off the deck, revealing some nice hand holds underneath (according to my friend).

Not sure why any routes on this wall get any stars. Oct 20, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I left a sling and biner on the upper piton in the cave. That anchor is a disaster waiting to happen. This is a climb that really would benefit from a real anchor. Apr 5, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Fun route, nothing too special but its quite long which makes it worthwhile. Lower off some spectacularly bomber equalized bong pitons up in the cave that the route naturally climbs to. No need to traverse to foul play unless you do the 2nd pitch. We had a 70m and it was plenty of rope. Jul 12, 2011
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
Descent: Rap off of foul play anchors with a 70m, or see descent beta for Perseverance Bulge Crack for other options. Jun 19, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
Awesome route. Crux is at the bottom then around 5.7 to 5.8- after that. Sweeeet route. Apr 26, 2010