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Routes in Bumble Bee Wall

Addis Ababa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Check Point Charlie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fowl Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercy Buckets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mercy Street T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perseverance Bulge Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sin Nombre T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Upchuck T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Wood, Bob Irvine 1961
Page Views: 3,241 total, 20/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The Bee Pitch climbs the obvious system which splits the Bumble Bee Wall, just right of Fowl Play (5.9 bolted route). The start is a bit hard to pick out. Look for two cracks which meet at a chockstone with webbing on it to mark the route.

P1) Climb the left crack through tough bulges up to the chockstone, then jam up to a chain anchors just left of the crack. 5.8 hard

P2) Make a difficult bulgy move off the belay, than really easy climbing leads to a ledge system. 5.7

P3) Scramble up the really easy gully to another ledge system. 4th class

Descent) Walkoff possible. Other options: rappel after pitch one (the 2nd and 3rd are not good), or rappel after pitch 2 (Fowl Play's anchors - 100 feet to the ground). I combined P2 & P3, but than downclimbed P3 to the Fowl Play anchors.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos

David Wieder
Salt Lake, UT
  5.8+
David Wieder   Salt Lake, UT
  5.8+
Pitch 1 is excellent, although a little awkward in places, maybe 5.8+. Solid gear placements everywhere, G rated. The bottom will take doubles of BD 2s and 3s, the rest of the pitch will take a run of smaller cams. You can toprope most of Fowl Play from the 1st pitch anchor.

No, it's not as hard as LCC 5.8, because those routes are way sandbagged by modern rating standards. Mar 19, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
A very good 1st pitch. Make sure your gear is solid at the start cause its steeper and pumpier than it looks. Jul 19, 2012
Arthur Cammers
Lexington, KY
  5.8+ PG13
Arthur Cammers   Lexington, KY
  5.8+ PG13
String pitches 1 and 2 together as one; 60 m rope will do; there is no rope drag issue. There is no need to break these up as two pitches. Rap off anchors to the left at top of pitch 2. The climbing in the first 20 m is great for the grade! Aug 16, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8-
FUUUUUN route. P2 and P3 can be combined w/ a 60 m rope. P2 and P3 are probably not worth doing. P1 is super fun! Bulgy and protects well. Not as hard as Satan's Corner, Callitwhatyouplease, or Hand Jive; which are the 5.8 standards in my opinion. I would definitely not call this PG13, you can get gear in any where you want and the falls would be clean. Some loose jug hold around the middle of P1, but can be bypassed by sinker jams. Apr 26, 2010
Scott Heisler
SLC, Utah
 
Scott Heisler   SLC, Utah
 
I'd say that this route is a PG-13, as there are a lots of places along the entire route to hit if you fell. Bring a some hexes, large nuts, knuckle cams and runners to go over the bulges. The cracks on this wall are dirty, and I didn't trust my cams to not slip if yanked. That said... get out vertical on the bulges (left leaning crack) and pull! I got up to a set of chain anchors on a 50 meter rope, and was able to rappel off of them to the ground. I'm sure that I would not have been able to lower to the ground through my gear. Jun 2, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.8+
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8+
I agree with Peter on this one. Pitch 2 has a one move sequence and then degrades, and pitch 3 is obviously a waste of time. If you do pitch 2, there are still anchors to rappel off of, so it isn't too bad, but the best way is just pitch 1. There are 2 pitons on this route. 1st is where all the webbing is and consists of a good-looking angle. The second is off the ledge at the 1st belay station and is a relic. This route seemed harder than other 5.8's, mainly because of the constant leaning around the bulge. The jams were secure, they just didn't feel so secure, and the feet at the bulge seemed to disappear. All in all a good route with some nice exposure. If you wait til about 4pm, it is in the shade. May 26, 2005