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Routes in Bumble Bee Wall

Addis Ababa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Pitch, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Check Point Charlie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fowl Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercy Buckets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mercy Street T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perseverance Bulge Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sin Nombre T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Upchuck T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rich Ream, Milt Hokanson 1961
Page Views: 1,231 total · 7/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Jun 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Located on Bumble Bee Wall in Storm Mtn Vicinity. Deserves more ascents than it gets. Looks like a nasty offwidth... but it's not! Start on the FAR right side of the ledge, below a nasty looking offwidth. Scamper left up a slab to bypass the offwidth, and continue up fun (!) jugs, occasionally stepping right to place gear where the crack narrows. Belay on a stance below a steep bulge with a darker, smoother face. Need a 2 or 3 camalot and med - large hex for belay!! Pitch 2: Crux move just above the belay: jam, smear, stem, and then grab for a jug. The only 5.9 section on the route. The route degrades just past this point, with some loose rock and scrambling to the top of the buttress. If you top out, you walk off to the west. It is possible to rap off a sling around a horn just below the top, be prepared to leave a LONG sling and rings, rap to Bee Pitch anchors, 60m rope recommended! A nice rap station at top would improve this route tremendously, as the walkoff is loose and brushy!

Protection

Big gear, but not as big as you'd think! Cams up to #3 Camalot; large hexes, a couple medium pieces. Leave the micro gear at home. Make sure to save a couple large pieces for the belay!! Number 4 camalot NOT needed.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
Even though this route is not very sustained, you have to really protect your second well or you'll wind up lowering them off if they can't figure out how to do that crux. Its the classic traversing gear route beta. Its not that hard, but if your partner has to take or fall they're out of line with the crack.

It really is kinda fun to dig in and climb that offwidth crack and then push all the way to the top of the route in one pitch. If you bring webbing for the top, be sure to have 8 to 12 feet with you and if you build an anchor its nice to have a hand sized piece and a cordelette. Its fun to dust off the hand sized tricams for this because in many places the crack undulates and they set particularly well.

Finally, you can easily drop just over to the left and down to the anchors of fowl play to rappell with a 70m rope. May 6, 2006
Stevie Nacho   Utah
Really fun trad route. Large cams are not mandatory, yet nice to have. It is the difference between placing arm deep #3 camalots or easily placing larger pieces like a #3.5 or #4 camalot. Basically, if you own those larger pieces, I would recommend bringing them. If not, you can still get it done.

SN Sep 25, 2009
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
Think I may have left a small BD cam (0.4?) with a long blue sling on this route within the past month or so. PM me if you found it and want to be nice and return it! Jun 24, 2015
greg austin
Lehi, Utah
greg austin   Lehi, Utah
If you climb this route in one pitch, plan on not being able to communicate with your belayer from the top at all. Jan 12, 2017
Mulch
New Jersey
 
Mulch   New Jersey
 
Accidentally climbed this route instead of bee pitch today. The entire route can be climbed in one pitch. Make a belay in the small alcove before you get to the top out, right after the 5-10 feet of crux moves. This route can also be lead entirely with nuts and hexes (that's all I had). If doing it in one pitch save a few bigger pieces for the crux, the section after the crux and for the belay in the alcove just before the top out. Apr 27, 2017

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