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Routes in Bumble Bee Wall

Addis Ababa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bee Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Check Point Charlie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fowl Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercy Buckets T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mercy Street T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perseverance Bulge Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sin Nombre T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Upchuck T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Glen Henshaw 1995
Page Views: 4,994 total, 28/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fowl Play climbs up the center of the main face. Scramble up a ledge system to gain the start. This climb is steep and long, an excellent lead, and with a crux right at the end. What more could you ask for.

Protection

Fowl Play has 2 bolts for anchors and it requires 10 draws for the climb. Rappel with a 60 meter rope and aim for the pedestal.
Zak Krenzer
Auburn, WA
  5.9
Zak Krenzer   Auburn, WA
  5.9
60m rope warrants some caution, 70 would be ideal. Steep route with some longer distances between bolts. I felt like it climbed a little awkward and I was on my hands quite a bit more than most routes at the same standard. Still I felt the individual moves were no harder than 5.9, though the wasps made it feel a bit more spicy. Go strait up from the last bolt, don’t dodge out to the right. Enjoy! Oct 25, 2017
Kaeli Caldwell
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Kaeli Caldwell   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Lots of wasps and beetles on the wall - I had to really watch where I was putting my hands! Great route. It took us awhile to decide which way to scramble up to the belay...went up one way and came down the other. I think the way I came down was better but still better done w/ climbing shoes. Both approach options are to the right if you're facing the route. I'll post pics of the approach from the ground. Oct 17, 2017
Mulch
SLC, Utah
  5.9+
Mulch   SLC, Utah
  5.9+
Climbed this yesterday. Next person to lead this should bring an adjustable wrench. Two bolts are spinners on the route. Forget the specific number of the bolts but they can definitely use a tightening. Aug 5, 2017
David Wieder
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
David Wieder   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
I thought the moves at the 2nd bolt and between the last bolt and the chains were .10a. Yes, there is some easy stuff in the middle, including a ledge you can sit on, but these cruxes are pretty stout for 5.9.

Excellent route. Mar 19, 2016
askam  
This is a classic! Underrated, if day as night is a 5.10, clearly this should be also. Apr 4, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Excellent pitch. Pumpy, long, with good movement and rests when you need them.

Be careful with rope length. We used a 60m, tried to lower, and ended up about 10' above the base. A 70m would be perfect. May 17, 2014
Evan Johnson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Evan Johnson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Took us a while to find the start, since there was more exposed 4th class scrambling to the belay ledge than expected. Fun climb otherwise, great views and exposure. A couple of wasps, but not many. The moves by the lower mantle and the very last moves are the trickiest (if you don't dodge them to the left). The rest is fun and flowy with good hands. We pulled up a 2nd rope & rapped off with two 60m ropes, all the way past the start ledge to avoid the approach downclimb. Apr 21, 2014
tscacadc  
 
Went up here 10/7/13 and learned the meaning of mountain wasp. There were about 2mil wasps swarming the wall. We had to run for our lives. Oct 11, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
Climbed it with a 60 and had 11" to spare :) I love the exposure on this climb! May 23, 2013
DTM
DTM  
Ran into more bees than would normally be off pollinating some lilac tree. Sep 9, 2011
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.9+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.9+
The fifth bolt is there, even if you don't see it. May 18, 2011
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.9
Great long route with excellent exposure. Stout 5.9 moves at start and finish. Many great rest spots along the way, so take your time and save some gas for the finish. Rope got hung up on the top of the pinnacle when I pulled my 70 - thanks to the party that helped us free it. May 16, 2010
Cody Campbell
draper
  5.10a
Cody Campbell   draper
  5.10a
Great route, hard for a 5.9. I have seen multiple "5.9" climbers get shut down on her. There's a great spot to stop for a break about 2/3 the way up if your pumped out. May 7, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
Over 100 ft long! 11 bolts! some sporty runouts, great body positions. Probably the best 5.9 sport route in the canyon. 60 m ropes can be used, but some down scrambling my the leader will be necessary. if TRing it, you will need a 70m rope. Super classic. Apr 26, 2010
TobinPetty
Nampa, ID
 
TobinPetty   Nampa, ID
 
Happy to hear there was a good ending to your story and only taking away from the mishap a lesson to knot the ends of your rope. Oct 12, 2009
Moonfri
 
Moonfri  
 
I did something today I thought I'd never do and rapped off my rope about 8 feet above the steep rock ramp at the bottom of this route. We were using a 60 meter and the ends weren't even. I felt the rope end pass though my hands and didn't have time to do anything but fall. It could have sent me all the way off the cliff but I feel 8 feet into a constriction in the rock which I got wedged in. BE SO CAREFULL if using a 60!! This is a really fun climb even though I almost took the plunge..Knots at the ends of my rope from now on! Oct 11, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9
Good long route. The start and end sections are 5.9 moves, the rest is maybe 5.8-ish. These 2 sections and the length are what make this route! Don't bypass the last moves by going left as I did many times before! Can be climbed with a 60m rope with careful lowering and some scrambling by the belayer... Jun 27, 2008
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
Very fun route. It is a very long climb (by sport climbing standards) and you will need a 70 meter rope to lower all the way back down to where you're belayer is. A 60 meter will land you on top of the pedestal climbers left of the start. A cool mantle type move at the beginning and some cool thinner moves toward the end. Have Fun!! May 17, 2006
Climbed this route for the first time on 07/20/2005 and was witness to some VERY LARGE rockfall. Rock just to the left of the route (near the corner made by the wall and the piece chipped off and tumbled down the gully to the ground. Also a number of smaller pieces were loose and were trapped by gravity from the belay (at the anchors). So please -- protect yourself -- test the rock, wear helmets and be careful!

Other than that -- it's a good route in an easily accessible area. The approach is best NOT downclimbed in the dark. Perhaps a little soft for the grade, but the length makes up for it. Jul 21, 2005