Type: Trad
FA: Jim Orey, 1972
Page Views: 4,252 total · 29/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On the west side of Sugarbun, climb the splitter finger crack with the oak growing next to it. Climb stemming the tree until you can gain purchase on the crack for the 5.10b variation or climb the crack directly staying off the tree for the direct way that feels more like 5.11.
A tried and true first 5.10 lead for many.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
It is amazing indeed that somehow, randomly by nature, a route like this can form: a series of widenings in the crack that take sinker finger-locks just one after the other--up the entire line to the top! How can such perfect climbing randomness exist??

The route itself is super fun and much longer than it looks from the ground. Definitely worth stopping for! Feb 9, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
Definitely worth a stop! Make that Move is worth a go too, fun roof and sweet arete up high.

Man, I thought this thing was tough at .10b, now I see the Bloot is calling it .10a? That blitzo's a sandbagger, draggin it down! Feb 12, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
The partner I was with the day I climbed this told me the start has two ratings, depending on which way you do it: if you work the tree to help get over the bulge, it is 10b. If you don't use the tree to get over the bulge, it is 10d. Even using the tree, the bulge move is kinda tricky and weird with the weight transition!

I figured my partner was giving me the straight dope as he is a 30-year climbing veteran of the area! Feb 17, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
I would say it is stout .10b with the tree. Pulling out of the tree is tricky, and there is a move at the top which is no gimme.

I have not tried the bottom w/o the tree, but a friend TRd it clean and said it 'felt 5.11' .10d sounds like a 'bag, and I think cruxy just avoiding the tree as you move up.

Also, there was a pretty good shot of this route from above in climbing mag a couple seasons ago, inspired me to get out and do it. Feb 18, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Climbed it again yesterday: hell is freezing over, dude....I think I agree with you.

I also think there are at least 3 shades of "bouldery" that can be applied to the start, all in ascending order of burliness. Mar 2, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
Believe me, it is exhausting being right all the time. Mar 3, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.10b/c
Then again, it could be that your continual exhaustion makes you weak and therefore you think things are harder than they really are.

I don't know what my excuse is, though. Mar 9, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
Fighting grade creep is hard work, it's true. Mar 11, 2010
W. Spaller  
 
I felt that heel-toeing between the tree and the rock was the most effective method for using the tree since the tree is slippery. Stellar crack and great location as it breaks the hike up into 2 parts. Mar 27, 2010
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11a
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11a
Came to it this morning with my buddy, and had the impression that it was going to be a super fun onsight that wouldn't really be too hard after the bulge. Nope. 10b is a total sandbag. I leave the tree as soon as possible, making the move through the bulge at least 10d if not 11a. Super small finger locks exist between the first pocket and the crappy hand that follows (if you dive it directly into the slot). There were a few small things to grab on to, but not much. Climbing is surprisingly sustained throughout the pitch, and the top has some amazing and pulls on finger tip locks! Amazing!

Fell on first move today and gave partner a try. After many hangs, he set up a TR and we spent the morning running laps to get the route dialed. Going for the red point next week! Yeah! Feb 24, 2015
calder davey
Bishop
 
calder davey   Bishop
 
So fun! Amazing finger locks, a few hand jams tossed in, and bouldery start make this a stellar pitch of climbing. will say that it felt pretty hard for .10b though! But get on this thing! Jul 13, 2015
Anthony H
Seattle, WA
Anthony H   Seattle, WA
This is a fun little climb! Worth stopping by on your way out.

Seems pretty sandbagged for a 10b. The Fracture felt easier for instance.

A blue alien or equivalent could keep the leader from decking while pulling the crux move to gain the bugle. Nov 13, 2015
WillF
 
WillF  
 
Fingerlock is a great route! I saw a line of bolts to the left of fingerlock that supertopo calls 10d, does anybody know the name of this route? Feb 28, 2016
Trevor Bloom
Sausalito CA
 
Trevor Bloom   Sausalito CA
 
The tree start is kind of heinous/ridiculous, but worth grunting out as the rest of the climb is amazing. Nov 13, 2017
The aesthetic way to climb this is to cast off the tree with hands just over the bulge and not to stem the tree as high as possible which spoils the climb and brings the rating down. Done like this, it is certainly 5.11
The route that comes out of Fingerlock at half way was put up by Will Cotrell and John Robinson. It is worth doing for the upper headwall which is probably 11a Jan 7, 2018
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.10
I love fingerlocks, but not the route fingerlocks. It's hard, painful, and not even the most secure locks. Nov 1, 2018