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Routes in Sugarbun

Annabelladonna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Dog S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dog Fight T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerlock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fly Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Make That Move Right Now Baby S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sound of Perseverance, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tippie Toes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wintergreen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Chad Suchoski, Jason Poncy (2007)
Page Views: 157 total · 1/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A dime sized edgeing slab.

Start on Make that Move Now Baby and instead of going over the roof after the third bolt, traverse out right around it. Clip the bolt (use double runner) and keep traversing right on a small ledge to a good stance and another bolt. The route continues strait up form here. Just after the last bolt is the crux. Throw for the arete up as high as possible then climb up it to the anchors. This route was put in on lead with all bolts drilled by hand.

A direct start has been worked for this route but still remains elusive to all who have tried. All but about 3ft has been climbed at a grade approaching 5.13 slab. It is an open project... Good Luck!

Location

Starts on make that move and goes right.

Protection

9 Draws

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
...the route finally gets a name! Nice going chad! Jul 3, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
The dead tree that used to hang over this route is now lying at the base. Thanks to whoever did the work and got it out of the way! Apr 14, 2008
A great addition to Sugarloaf. the crux is the sequence getting from Make that move over right on to this climb (11b?). There is a heady section at mid point which is probably 10b/c but quite a way above a bolt. The top is climbed by exiting right to gain the arete (easier and better protected) or straight up which is 11b/c and means a lengthy fall. This is probably better for a TR variation than onsight lead. A good route that needs more ascents to keep it clean Jan 7, 2018

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