Type: Trad, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Gene Drake and Jim Hicks, 1969
Page Views: 2,059 total · 15/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Jan 29, 2011
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Be aware of Caldor Fire closures - Up to date info here: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/ Details


Farley's ugly, left-facing cousin, East Corner will more fully test your liebacking skills or it can more easily be climbed as a fist crack if you have your skills honed. If not, this is a great introduction to a skill (fists) you will definitely need if you wish to progress to any degree in Traditional climbing. Keep it together for the near vertical crux before gaining a moderate trough and then a bolt before running it out a bit on easy terrain to chain anchors. There is some loose rock in the trough past the crux, so proceed cautiously. Judicious slinging on the second half of the climb should diminish rope drag.


This semi-classic pain in the ass is - as the name would suggest - located on the East side of the Sugar Bun. A leaning oak tree is growing right in front of the left-facing crack.


Gear up to 4", one bolt.