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Routes in Sugarbun

Annabelladonna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Dog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Fight T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerlock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fly Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Make That Move Right Now Baby S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sound of Perserverance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tippie Toes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wintergreen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Gene Drake and Jim Hicks, 1969
Page Views: 1,024 total · 12/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Jan 29, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Farley's ugly, left-facing cousin, East Corner will more fully test your liebacking skills or it can more easily be climbed as a fist crack if you have your skills honed. If not, this is a great introduction to a skill (fists) you will definitely need if you wish to progress to any degree in Traditional climbing. Keep it together for the near vertical crux before gaining a moderate trough and then a bolt before running it out a bit on easy terrain to chain anchors. There is some loose rock in the trough past the crux, so proceed cautiously. Judicious slinging on the second half of the climb should diminish rope drag.

Location

This semi-classic pain in the ass is - as the name would suggest - located on the East side of the Sugar Bun. A leaning oak tree is growing right in front of the left-facing crack.

Protection

Gear up to 4", one bolt.

Photos

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Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
I found it pretty sustained 5.9, but great way to get on top of Sugarbun. I jammed it as a fist crack and placed two large pieces down low on the crux. A great climb. There's one bolt at the top to lower off, or easy climb over to "Make that move..." anchor (recommended). Nov 10, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Haha, what an aghast reaction, but, sadly, for me it was indeed a lieback. I only hope the wide gods can forgive me. The pain in the ass part for me was totally unrelated to the lead, more of a private joke about how I stupidly goofed up the TR anchor for the follower and had to go to some effort to fix it. I do agree that it is an often overlooked classic on the bun, well worth a run when you're there. Mar 1, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.9
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.9
PITA lieback??? It's locker fist jams and short. A great intro for the aspiring 5.9 leader who is looking to begin working on their wide technique. An often overlooked classic. Feb 24, 2011