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Routes in Sugarbun

Annabelladonna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirty Dog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Fight T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
East Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fingerlock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fly Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Make That Move Right Now Baby S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sound of Perserverance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tippie Toes S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wintergreen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport
FA: M. Stumpf, B. Albonico, 1981.
Page Views: 2,432 total, 18/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Step off a rock on to thin face with bolts, pull past a roof and follow an arete to the top.

Protection

Eight draws.

Photos

Did this yesterday, found it much better than it looked. Moves over the roof are sweet! Apr 2, 2017
Jamie Silliman
Wilton, CA
  5.10d
Jamie Silliman   Wilton, CA
  5.10d
I've found that there are two different ways to do the bottom move...imho, one is 10d and the other is 5.11a... Jul 31, 2015
Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
Brand new bolt placed on this route in 2012 thanks to support from the ASCA.



safeclimbing.org/ Oct 15, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The roof moves were great and felt different from anything else I've done at the Loaf. The upper arete climbing was cruiser fun, but you do have to pay the price of admission with the sequency slab start. While I found the start was the hardest part, others found their crux at the roof. Fortunately for those redpointing, you can easily do some "roped bouldering" to suss out the start moves. Mar 13, 2011
bergbryce
California
 
bergbryce   California
 
I thought this route was really cool. As mentioned, it's much longer than it looks from the bottom. You are in for a surprise once you pull the roof. The finishing arete is very cool looking and provides a memorable finish. May 3, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
the final bolt is a completely rusted 1/4" relic... so don't fall on the exit move! Apr 15, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
quality climb, a lot longer than it looks from the ground. start move is hard. Apr 30, 2007