Type: Mixed, Ice, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Bragg, Rick Wilcox, 1973
Page Views: 18,454 total · 110/month
Shared By: Gabe13 Flanders on Oct 13, 2006 with improvements by Dave Cramer
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The route, the legend! Although Repentance has been outshined over the years in terms of pure difficulty, it remains an aesthetic and thrilling line with a satisfying combination of ice and rock. Navigating the finishing chockstone, with nearly four hundred feet of air under your feet, is unforgettable.

Right of the Cathedral Cave, you will spy a continuous flow of ice choking the rock chimney of the same name. Get there early or late, you don't want to climb beneath another party on this one.

P1: A 1 to 2-foot wide ice flow (often picked out) leads past a low pin to a ledge on the left with bolts. With a 70 m rope, it is possible and recommended to combine this pitch with p 2, as it makes the p 2 crux much safer.
P2: Step right and climb the column that spills from the pinched chimney. Can be much harder (and dicier screw placements to protect this crux)if the column is broken off. Careful stemming and a touch of brute strength will get you into the long, lovely chimney above. May be straight-ahead swings with great stemming on rock if fat, can be memorable chimney climbing reaching way in for sticks when thin. Good rock gear at intervals to supplement screws. Belay on the left once the chimney opens up into the spectacular rock corner, you will be tempted to stop at the first ledge but there is a higher station that is much nicer.
P3: Step back right and climb the beautiful WI4 ice flow. Roughly seventy feet of climbing will get you to the climb's second crux, the chockstone. It is possible to go left or right, most climbers go left but both options are good. Good cams and screws are available under the chockstone, then pick your line and go for it. The turf shots are only a few moves away... People always talk about the (gloved) hand jam, but you can climb this crux with or without tools. As with much of the route, good stemming is key. Hallelujah, you made it!

Protection

Ice screws, a light rack of cams including a 3-incher.

Photos