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Routes in Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs

Goofers Delight WI3
North End Pillars WI3-4
North End Slab WI2
Remission NEI 5+ WI5+ M5
Repentance WI5 M4-5
Thresher WI3
Unicorn, The WI4+
Type: Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,553 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Between the North End Rock area and the North End Slab ice climbs there is another steeper slab of ice that is consistent through most of the ice season...
It is accessed by climbing an easy slab from the right up to the left to the base of the climb on a large ledge... Or my preference, climb straight up from below the ledge via a short but super fun chimney and pillar past a few trees and on to the ledge below the slab...

Choose your line up the steep wide slab (steeper earlier in the season normally)... Climb the slab then over come a bulge and on to the trees...

Care should be taken when on the ledge below the main slab as there was an accident recently when a climber lost footing and slid off the cliff below sustaining serious injury...

Story time: I was on-sight soloing this climb all super psyched about a new set of tools... The slab was covered in snow and I was climbing and clearing snow off as i went... I climbed up 50 and as i wiped I realized that the ice had baked off of the upper part of the climb... Needless to say I got a little nervous... I made a sketchy traverse on a narrow ledge on the left on thin detached ice as the snow balled up on my crampons (could it get worse)... At the left end of the ledge there was a short steep section that got me in to the trees and made me feel more comfortable but nothing would make me feel less foolish... The lesson was learned but what a way to learn it, dang...

Location

Between the North End Rock area and the North End Slab ice climbs... The climb proper starts from a large ledge maybe 25 feet above the ground...

Protection

Regular rack of screws...

Photos

Bill Kirby
Baltimore Maryland
Bill Kirby   Baltimore Maryland
A 60M rope just barely makes it to the rap station (tree) if you do this in one pitch.

You need double 60s to make it down in one shot. Feb 20, 2017
No comments yet? This climb is pretty sweet. The first pitch rock chimney is fun. Then the business up the WI3 sheet is great. Steep and sustained. Good lead practice for the grade. Dec 16, 2016