Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete

Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 10, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

A good route, overall, with pretty good gear.

P1, 120' 5.9: Start off the ground in some awkward jams in a left-facing corner over-head to pull up onto a lower angle stance on the eh face above and slightly left. Climb up lower angle rock to reach the bottom of the beautiful flake and obtuse corner. Start with .5" gear (cams are best) and work your way up the flake and up the rack until you reach the top of it, perhaps 60 feet later, and with a 3" cam. Climb up and left into diagonal cracks and a good shelf and belay off of gear.

P2, 70', 5.9: Climb left and over on diagonal cracks up to below a dark red spot and a band of horizontals in the wall, a good 5-7 meters left of the overhanging, junky corner above the belay. Climb up features and cracks past a huge old bong piton (back it up with a nut) and up to some more nut placements above it. The way it is driven it would probably break at the eyelets where it is clipped if you fell on it alone. Top out on the ridge above and belay from gear again.

To descend, scramble East, then hike 50-100 meters north, then West through a notch and back down south to the base.

Location

Up hill quite some distance from the creek, not less than 200 meters. you will encounter a open book corner with a right-facing flake, starting 10 meters off of the ground. The wall to the left of this is a beautiful yellow/green and the crack which starts at fingers goes to hands before reaching a ledge at the base of a left-facing, left-leaning corner, 120' up.

Protection

A standard rack to 3.5" with some long slings.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments