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Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete

Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: B. Horan and J. Baldwin, 1982
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This would be 3-star route if the "black hole" quality of the first 20 meters were not so powerful. But as it is, the beginning sucked the stars out of the top half. The crux of this climb up top is actually reasonably protected and on solid rock, but getting to it is pretty loose rock and is virtually unprotected.

Climb up the right side of the corner in the right facing dihedral- going further right will only make the rock worse and the pro non-existent. Continue up to low-angle rock and work to the right below the stunning crack above.

Go right of the crack onto a face hold and reach up to the gear in the eh lowest part of the crack. This is probably 5.9+, S. Get a hold up in the first pod of the roof and pull up into the roof on decent jams and holds to get more gear (5.10) then work your way up into the roof and through it. Footwork is key, as you can really take weight off your arms if you are vigilant to do so. Place 2-3" cams to the end of the crack, place a #4 Camalot and get onto the lip. (5.11) Pull the lip with style or awkward, whatever you find (I found one no-hands up there) and then onto the slab (5.11 again). Go up and right below a second roof and finish to the top, where you can scramble down to the east. Walk north 50 meters, then cut back west through a notch and gully to return to the base.

Location

Near the top of the West face of Ridge four, perhaps 400 meters up, and just past the rotten cave of 'Anthem To The Sun' is a right-facing corner with trash rock on the right side for the first 20 meters. Above that there is a brief slab, then an off-width splitting a large roof, perhaps 3 meters long on good rock. This is 'Under The Influence.'

Protection

Gear from 2" to a #4 Camalot in the crux roof, plus whatever you think might hold before that.

Photos

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