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Dialing For Dollars

5.9, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
FA: Jim Erickson & Bob Godfrey, 1976
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Skunk Canyon > Ridge 4 aka Mohling A…
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Description

A good route, overall, with pretty good gear.

P1, 120' 5.9: Start off the ground in some awkward jams in a left-facing corner over-head to pull up onto a lower angle stance on the face above and slightly left. Climb up lower angle rock to reach the bottom of the beautiful flake and obtuse corner. Start with .5" gear (cams are best) and work your way up the flake and up the rack until you reach the top of it, perhaps 60 feet later, and with a 3" cam. Climb up and left into diagonal cracks and a good shelf and belay off of gear.

P2, 70', 5.9: Climb left and over on diagonal cracks up to below a dark red spot and a band of horizontals in the wall, a good 5-7 meters left of the overhanging, junky corner above the belay. Climb up features and cracks past a huge old bong piton (back it up with a nut) and up to some more nut placements above it. The way it is driven it would probably break at the eyelets where it is clipped if you fell on it alone. Top out on the ridge above and belay from gear again.

To descend, scramble East, then hike 50-100 meters north, then West through a notch and back down South to the base.

Location

Up hill quite some distance from the creek, not less than 200 meters. you will encounter a open book corner with a right-facing flake, starting 10 meters off of the ground. The wall to the left of this is a beautiful yellow/green and the crack which starts at fingers goes to hands before reaching a ledge at the base of a left-facing, left-leaning corner, 120' up.

Protection

A standard rack to 3.5" with some long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The 1st pitch follows the nice flake up to a cozy ledge. The 2nd pitch traverses left from the belay up to a red band of rock; follow this up past the bong to an undercling, and then make an exciting move out left to finish up the black band. Stellar.
[Hide Photo] The 1st pitch follows the nice flake up to a cozy ledge. The 2nd pitch traverses left from the belay up to a red band of rock; follow this up past the bong to an undercling, and then make an exciti…
Daniel at the belay atop P1.
[Hide Photo] Daniel at the belay atop P1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shambu Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Amazing route. It felt a little harder than 5.9 though; I would say 5.10b. Also, the piton on the second pitch seemed pretty bomber to me. The first pitch is absolutely beautiful. The second pitch takes a handful of small nuts. It is worth the hike. Dec 3, 2017
[Hide Comment] First ascent by Jim Erickson and Bob Godfrey, 1976. Feb 26, 2024
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks John, I integrated that info into the main route description! Feb 26, 2024