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Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete

Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: B. Horan & S. Shangdahl, 1980s
Page Views: 55 total, 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 10, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: Details
Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start as for Dialing For Dollars, but continue up and left (5.6? at first), traversing more than rising under the belly of a huge flake for 40' or so before reaching a crux right after good gear. Turn up and go more vertical by a clean section of rock at the feet (5.9+) and then go left again until the flake disappears. When the flake runs out, go vertical (5.10a) to an anchor on a shelf to finish on good holds. Clip the anchor and check it out to be sure it is solid. Back it up with a 2" cam to the left until you are ready to rap.

When we arrived at this climb, the anchor was a total loss- the sheath of the cord on the hex turned to fiber and powder when rubbed between my fingers, and the old sling snapped under light pressure when we pulled on it. I proceeded to "shred" the sling with not more than 30 lbs force. This anchor must not have been used for at least a decade. We replaced the slings and added a nut, but did not have any 5mm cord to re-sling the hex, which is now on a "sheathless" cord.

Location

This route starts at the base of Dialing For Dollars and diverts left after just a few feet.

Protection

A standard rack with an extra 2" cam to back up the belay. The anchor up top needs some more work. We refurbished the slings, added a quicklink, and added a nut. If someone were to re-tread the fixed hex (requires 5mm cord in a #2 hex) it would be far better.

Photos

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