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Routes in 7. Sunday Buttress

Avoiding the Bat TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balcony Center TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balcony Right T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cactus Capers TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Go Crack T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warrior's Waltz TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: TR
FA: Nate Moren and Scott Skavanger (6/4/2004)
Page Views: 115 total · 1/month
Shared By: Doug Lintz on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Named because of the occassional presence of a bat in the flare of No Go Crack. Balcony Left would have been a more fitting choice.

Start about 5 feet left of No Go Crack or about 12 left of Balcony Center. Move up to the roof and try to find the fingertip edges above it. Crank up or jump to the next set of edges. Finishes up the small right facing crack/corner just left of the Balcony's left edge.

Protection

Standard Blue Mounds toprope.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Easier once you know where the edges are. Oct 8, 2006
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Warning! Do not grab the small block under the right side of the large block/boulder at the left edge of the balcony, both are loose and hollow sounding. Jun 14, 2007
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
  5.10
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
  5.10
SO FUN!!! Too bad two holds are loose...otherwise this is an area classic! Apr 8, 2010
nate moren  
 
This is so crazy. I found this document on my computer. My buddy and I wrote it to send to the Rock Climbing in Minnesota and Wisconsin guide book. But we never got a response. Ironically we named the route the same thing because we were also avoiding a bat in no go crack. I attached a photo and the write up below.



Here is some new information for the next edition of Rock Climbing, Minnesota and Wisconsin, that I think that you will find interesting!

This is a new route my friend and I made when we were trying to climb “no go crack”(at blue mounds). We set up a rope on “no go crack” and rappelled down. On the way down we were looking at the holds and noticed that there was a bat in one of the crucial holds. We decided to try climbing on the face to the left of “no go crack”. We thought there would be no way we would get up and over the roof. Cleaning holds as we were climbing, my friend reached around the roof. There was a hold that you could not see from the ground. It was a small ledge that you can match your hands on. Then there is a very fun dyno. You work up to the left of “no go crack”. Note: the crack is off. You make your way up to the balcony. Then you go left using the face only. The crack to the right is off, and the arete to the left is also off. I think this is one of the more fun routes at blue mounds because of the variations in moves from side pulls to dynos and crimps to slopes. I also know that this route has not been climbed before because of how much cleaning of the holds we had to do, and it is not in your guidebook.


Description:

Avoiding The Bat (5.10a/b) ★★★ This route is left of “no go crack”. The route starts on an obvious ledge. It is an all around good route that has two cruxes and a lot of fun moves including a very fun dyno from a crimpy ledge just above the roof. Note: “no go crack” is off. Work your way up to the balcony then go left using the face only. The crack to the right is off as well as the arete to the left. FA: Nate Moren and Scott Skavanger, 6/4/2004






From, Nate and Scott Feb 11, 2011
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Nate,
I was there that day you guys were on this. I thought it was a fun and worthy route so I added it to this site after waiting to see if you guys would. Personally I think calling the crack above the balcony off-limits makes the upper portion a bit contrived. It's directly below the lower half of the route and it's not part of the No Go route anyways.
Regardless it's a nice addition to a buttress packed with great routes. Feb 14, 2011
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
  5.10
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
  5.10
Great route.
I agree that the elimination of features isn't really needed; the lower crack is clearly out of the way and would make the crux more difficult, and there is one hold on the left face near the top which wiggles a bit. Eliminating the upper crack doesn't add any difficulty.

However, there is a way to make the route a bit easier by starting about 10 feet left of the traditional start on easier climbing then traversing right at the roof to join the route. This does not change the crux but makes the start easier. Feb 15, 2011

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