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Routes in 7. Sunday Buttress

Avoiding the Bat TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balcony Center TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Balcony Right T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cactus Capers TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Go Crack T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warrior's Waltz TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,458 total, 11/month
Shared By: Doug Lintz on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs the flaring short crack above the lower overhang. Start a few feet left of Balcony Center going up the black face. Engage the crack and sloping edges (crux) up to the balcony. Finish up the left side of the balcony.

Protection

Standard Blue Mounds toprope, long slings may be helpful.

Photos

Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
  5.12-
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
  5.12-
I am sure this has been led. Reed told me leading this was one of the last things he did in BMSP. Honestly, not that hard of a route once you know the sequence (assuming it isn't muggy;P) the crux is easily protect-able, and I think some piece near the jug after the crux would protect the mantle. Classic BM style headpoint. Jun 11, 2013
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
The first Farris guidebook says it has but I don't know who or when. May 15, 2013
Taylor Lais
Black Hills, SD
Taylor Lais   Black Hills, SD
Does anyone know if this thing has ever seen a true ascent on lead? May 13, 2013
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
Trad leadable. Runout but easy to the overhang. Don't expect to sew it up. Oct 8, 2006