Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,598 total · 11/month
Shared By: Doug Lintz on Oct 8, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Climbs the flaring short crack above the lower overhang. Start a few feet left of Balcony Center going up the black face. Engage the crack and sloping edges (crux) up to the balcony. Finish up the left side of the balcony.

Protection

Standard Blue Mounds toprope, long slings may be helpful.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.12b
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.12b
Trad leadable. Runout but easy to the overhang. Don't expect to sew it up. Oct 8, 2006
Taylor Lais
Black Hills, SD
Taylor Lais   Black Hills, SD
Does anyone know if this thing has ever seen a true ascent on lead? May 13, 2013
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
  5.12b
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
  5.12b
The first Farris guidebook says it has but I don't know who or when. May 15, 2013
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
  5.12-
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
  5.12-
I am sure this has been led. Reed told me leading this was one of the last things he did in BMSP. Honestly, not that hard of a route once you know the sequence (assuming it isn't muggy;P) the crux is easily protect-able, and I think some piece near the jug after the crux would protect the mantle. Classic BM style headpoint. Jun 11, 2013