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Routes in Jazz Rock

Bambi: Caught in the Headlights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dead Deer T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Long Live Trad T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: J. Bargo. FFA: J. Bargo, B Strachan, 1994
Page Views: 95 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A great route with so much variety, it would have a different name if I had not slipped off it on my first try... I was going to name the route "And Now for Something Completely Different." because it changed character every 10 feet or so.
There was some somewhat friendly route scooping going on between Jerry, Willie, and Myself in those days.

Climb up this, a thin inset to a thin off-set to a wide crack to a leaning offset to a finger crack to a pod to an offset... to the top. Rap from fixed anchors on a tree.

Location

On the left aspect of Jazz Rock, you will encounter this climb, a splitter crack of various sizes running ground-up to the top of the wall. It has some moss not far to the sides of the bottom and is about 15 meters to the right of a Moderate Chimney called "My what a Pretty Crack You Have."

Protection

A standard rack from .5 to 4"

Photos

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Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
The top out is sketchy and not well protected. It used to have a dead pine dangling in such a way that you got speared as you clawed into the dirt top out.

I pulled two TCUs from the final section of crack after falling while trying to make the moves.

The route is well worth the walk though. This is a must do if you're in the area. If .10c is above your lead level, top out My What a Pretty Crack You Have and top rope it. Oct 5, 2006