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Long Live Trad
5.10c,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
FA: FA: J. Bargo. FFA: J. Bargo, B Strachan, 1994
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Jazz Rock
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A great route with so much variety, it would have a different name if I had not slipped off it on my first try... I was going to name the route "And Now for Something Completely Different." because it changed character every 10 feet or so.
There was some somewhat friendly route scooping going on between Jerry, Willie, and Myself in those days.
Climb up this, a thin inset to a thin off-set to a wide crack to a leaning offset to a finger crack to a pod to an offset... to the top. Rap from fixed anchors on a tree.
Location
On the left aspect of Jazz Rock, you will encounter this climb, a splitter crack of various sizes running ground-up to the top of the wall. It has some moss not far to the sides of the bottom and is about 15 meters to the right of a Moderate Chimney called "My what a Pretty Crack You Have."
Protection
A standard rack from .5 to 4"
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Stanton, Kentucky
I pulled two TCUs from the final section of crack after falling while trying to make the moves.
The route is well worth the walk though. This is a must do if you're in the area. If .10c is above your lead level, top out My What a Pretty Crack You Have and top rope it. Oct 5, 2006